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    Engine runs rough after tune up

    Fairly new to owning an e30, so I have a lack of knowledge on them, so forgive me for anything i might question.

    I have a 89 325i with like 250k ish miles that I decided to tune up. Changed water pump, fan clutch, fuel filter, timing belt and tensioner, plugs, wires, and the distributor cap and rotor. Before i changed everything it ran decent, but i could tell that stuff was worn and needed replaced. Now, after getting it back together, it idles the same (not 100% smooth, but doesnt fluctuate much at all), but when i give it gas, it runs rough, the higher the RPM, the rougher it gets. but it doesnt start missing, or start to die. Double checked i had the timing correct and it is. Did the thing to get the engine codes, and there are none (got 1444). Checked vacuum lines, no leaks (havent checked the ones you cant access without taking stuff off yet). I have no idea what it could be, and truthfully dont want to blindly throw money at it since it does have higher miles and my driving style probably wont allow for much more to be put on it. Any help is greatly appreciated. I can also take a video of how it runs if so you all can get a better idea of what its doing.

    #2
    I was just told by a friend that since my battery died while it was sitting, and also replacing the SI board batteries, that it will show the no fault code until i drive it some, so that may not be a true reading. going to take it up the road a bit tomorrow to see if it throws a code.

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      #3
      It should take a few minutes of driving for the ECU to adapt to the new engine environment. It should smooth out if there is no fault.

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        #4
        I'm not sure it can be running rough without missing. Typically running rough is missing.
        I'm always a fan of checking crank position sensor and the wire attached to it for abrasions for a rough running situation.
        Did you turn the crank or the cam independently while the t-belt was off? If so, you may have bent a valve or two (or more).
        Give as many details as you can. We'll get you sorted.
        Originally posted by Andy.B
        Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
        1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
        ~~~~~~~~~~
        I was born on 3/25…
        ~~~~~~~~~~

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          #5
          Since the ECU needed to adapt, decided to take it up my road (half mile trip), and was really easy on it. Got to the point to turn around and it died. wont start back. still no code.

          I know i didnt turn the cam, as for the crank, im pretty sure i didnt. I remember turning it, but if i remember right it the belt was already back on. This was about 3 weeks ago so i cant remember exactly.

          Now where it wont start, it will crank, start to hit, then die, will the occasional backfire. Things arent sounding to good.

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            #6
            Make sure all the sensors are plugged in right--the crank position sensor and the one on the distributor can be easily reversed.
            '90 zinno 325iS

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              #7
              When I got mine back together after a similar job, I mixed up the coolant temp sensor for the ecm, and the gauge sender. This caused the car to run like crap until I switched them back.
              1990 BMW 325i Sedan
              Mods:
              -Condor Poly CABs

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                #8
                I have found the problem. One of my new plug wires was bad. The wire to #2 wasnt together properly. put an old wire back on, and it runs great.

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