Help 1988 zinnoberrot 325 4 door no start

[LounsRacingInc]

I'm sure you guys get a million of these posts per hour, but i have exhausted every option i can think of and i still cant get this car to start up.

Here is the story:
I bought a non running 88 325 4 door that had 298k miles on it. The P/o said he never really got to work on it and never got it to run (he also bought it non running) it needed a clutch and a timing belt as far as he knew. So i did what any responsible car guy would do....swap the engine! After light tinkering i couldn't get the original motor to fire at all so we decided to put in another m20b27 from a 84 325e that had 160k miles and had a good clutch and a recent timing belt (i drove the car it came out of), so we got it all swapped and installed....then i had a blonde moment and forgot that the early models had a square plug for the body harness plug and late models had the c101 plug.... no biggie really though after many wiring diagrams we got it all matched up and im %100 sure we spliced it correctly. So after lots of digging and checking, i have no power to the coil/no start, it rolls over just fine and i have checked the grounds, the cps and crank speed sensor, changed the DME, still nothing.

The only strange bits i have suspicion of are that the p/o cut two wires off the back of the body side of the c101 plug (black w/ green stripe, and solid black). But the engine side of the c101 does not have pins where these wires are. And the early model harness has a 3 pin plug right by the DME that doesn't match anything on the late model dash harness

Any suggestions on what else to start looking at?
(will supply any info/pics for people to see)

[LounsRacingInc]

Here are the chopped wires from the c101, they are pins 9 and 15



Here is the c101 plug, the engine side has alot less pins then most of the other c101 plugs i have looked at



Here is our splice (its temporarily spliced with wire nuts till we know it works), We followed 4 different wiring diagrams showing the pinouts between early and late, all the colors matched and left one Balck w/ white stripe wire left over



Here is the three pin plug by the DME along with a little single pin plug thats a little farther back on the harness (there is actually two of these single pin female plugs)



Here is what i think is the pins for the little automatic transmission computer plug thing along with the second single pin female plug



Here is a blurry pic of the plug on the dash side of the harness (late model dash harness)

[dreamchasin]

Should have just swapped in a m20b25. Direct plug and play, no splicing needed.

[goldenbb]

Immobilizer? Not sure if this comes in to play on an '88.

The auto trans has some kind of switch so it knows it is in "P" and I recall a lot of posts about that being a problem on manual swaps and such.

[staysideways]

It can be 3 things and i have dealth with all.

1: The relay under the steering colum its down there u gotta remove the bolster. ( orange 4 prong)

2: there this one fuse that controls all that i think its 21 not really sure but i can double check for you tommarow. ( check all your fuses

3. The neutral/park safety switch given if it was an auto at some point. If youre not sure check the stickers nect to the driver door latch if its says 325iA that means it was auto

I dont know about this and i have never dealth with this but it can be ur ignition switch. My friend use to start his car with a screwdriver cuz the switch wouldnt "open" all the way

Feel free to pm me

1989 E30 325i Sedan Alpine