Misfire chocking and violent shaking on my only car please help!

[Rdannyr]

Hi I'm having a lot of trouble with my 91 325i
I just did a lot of maintenance work on my car to get it to run perfectly and pass smog for dd duty. Unfortunately it had the opposite effect and now I have no car and have to take the bus to school and bike to work. After the maintenance work it started to run rough and got worse and worse. This is most if what I did to the car.

New rotor and cap
New spark plugs
New timing belt and tensioner
New thermostat
New blue and brown temp sensors
New eBay fuel pump
New fuel filter
New used AFM
New used fpr
New used ecu
New 17lb injectors
Icv cleaned

So after all this I replaced the fuel pump because it was making a weird noise and now the new one is even louder. I pretty sure its a fuel problem. It got a bit worse when i changed my fuel filter even the though the old one was really dirty. Could it be my new injectors they are the only non stock parts I added. Also my cap and rotor were pretty dusty and look like it had some uneven wear. Also all these parts have under 50 mi because I barely drove it after.

I have pics of it and also some video of it running.





If you have any ideas please help I'd be so extremely grateful and happy I need my car back asap.

I'd be happy to send beer money to who ever helps me solve this problem :)

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[Rdannyr]

https://youtu.be/x73Ovt2-iUU

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[betsy325e]

Does it run any better off idle?
What's your fuel pressure?

[dnguyen1963]

Something is seriously wrong with the timing. Your cap and rotor should be nice and clean with only 50 miles on them. You need to open her up and check the timing belt to see if you are not off by a few teeth.

[betsy325e]

That corrosion in the cap after 50 miles is crazy. What's the coil lookin' like? Run the electrical tests? Did you get water/anti-freeze in the cap when reassembling?

Did you go with the standard WR-8-LC+ or whatever it is for the 325i? I've seen lots of shit about fancy plugs mucking everything up in the dirty thirties. Not trying to insult your intelligence, but we've all made the dumbest mistakes -- confirm those bad mamma jammas are wired up good and proper.

Sure about the timing? I know I had a little trouble because of the offset between the timing marks on the cam and the head. I made a little cardboard straight-edge cut out to make sure it was exactly lined up because it seemed to me to produce a bit of an optical illusion.

As for the " new used" parts, there are a few tests you can run on the AFM with a 9-volt battery -- wouldn't hurt to check that out.

My understanding is that the FPR doesn't generally go bad, but the easiest way to check if you haven't got the equipment to test the pressure at the rail is to pull the vacuum line off and see if it changes. Also see if you've got gas in the vacuum line. Also, if it is "new used" make sure it's the proper one for an I and not an Eta.

Injectors -- pretty hard to wire them up incorrectly due to the lengths of wire for the harness, but I recently just miswired #3 to #4 and vice versa. Wouldn't hurt to check.

New used ECU...have you tried putting swapping the old one back in there?

Also, and it generally goes without saying with these 30s -- vacuum leaks. Possible you left something insufficiently tight/cracked a hose or boot when taking all that shit apart and reassembling.

Start with the simple stuff...hopefully it's just a goof. Also be prepared for it to be more than one thing, because it often is.

[Rdannyr]

It does get a bit better off idle and the plugs wires are all OEM I replaced one with an extra I had and they all look good I triple checked that they were all in good too. As for all the new used parts i tried with each of them on and old one on to make sure it was good. I'm going to check the timing right now. I can't remember but can I do it without removing the radiator and coolant lines? I just put in new coolant and flushed it really good I'd hate to do it again.
Thanks everybody I'll update soon after I check timing.

[Rdannyr]

Also the cap I think is not corroded I checked the little multi point bolt and it was loose. I think this cause the rotor to eat away at the cap causing the dust.

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