Strange Coolant Temperature Sensor problem ***and overall wellness thread!

[FunkySwerve]

Hey fellas! Started some overhaul work today and got stock on removing the power steering belt. I loosened all of the 13mm bolts surrounding the power steering pump, but when I go in to loosen the 19mm tension, it doesn't seem to move along the teeth. In fact, the bolt was a little wobbly, I had to turn in because it started to get dark and rain. Any thoughts?

[FunkySwerve]

Bump.

[FunkySwerve]

That depends on the depth of the rust and where it is.

Got some rust on the sun roof, the rail for the sun roof is completely rusted out and a small part of the base. There are some rust spec'ed here and there in the trunk, and a small rust spot in the top grooves of the driver door.

So I'm not sure how I can determine the depth which is why I ask which great for surface rust. Lol

ALSO, I found a vacuum leak that has also been slowly spraying oil: the breather hose at the valve cover end. I turned the clamp to tighten it and there weren't many turns left, probably a whole turn and a half. Haven't driven it since then, could the clamp been a problem or is the hose out of commission?

[jlevie]

That depends on the depth of the rust and where it is.

[FunkySwerve]

What grit sandpaper do I use to shave off surface rust? What are my options after this in terms of protective coating?

[101]

^^^ technically, no, its not necessary to disconnect the battery for those items, but its always good practice to do so. None of those are energized unless the ignition is on.

I'll yank the battery cable when working on the "heavier gauge items" such as alternator, starter, battery cables, fuse box, etc., items that stay energized when the ignition is off, or high value parts like instrument cluster, engine computer(s), ABS computer, trip computer, etc.

[FunkySwerve]

Bump.

I'm gonna be replacing the spark plug wire set, distributor and rotor, and spark plugs among other things. Will I need to disconnect the battery?

[FunkySwerve]

I bought a universal O2 sensor from Bosch that requires stripping a piece of insulation. I also have to FINALLY install my rubber shift boot(apart of the insulation to dull drive train noise and keep exhaust fumes out) are they the same sized wires or bigger/smaller? Cheers.

[jlevie]

You should be getting paid for giving all of this helpful advise.

Thanks for those thoughts, but my primary goal is to pass on knowledge and help others out that don't have the experience or knowledge.

[FunkySwerve]

Probably a bad valve cover gasket or aged rubber bungs. But a bad oil breather hose can result oil in that area.

A smoke test done by a pro will tell if there are any intake leaks, there or elsewhere.

You should be getting paid for giving all of this helpful advise.

[jlevie]

Here we go again! I've been noticing there have been some oil deposits cropping up on my valve cover, but only near the firewall. Any idea what this could be?

Probably a bad valve cover gasket or aged rubber bungs. But a bad oil breather hose can result oil in that area.

Also, when I put my ear here(near the throttle) I hear...what I can only be described as consistent airflow...but I can't tell whether it's a vac leak or just the sound of air going through the hoses. My idle is good, so there's that.

A smoke test done by a pro will tell if there are any intake leaks, there or elsewhere.

[FunkySwerve]

Here we go again! I've been noticing there have been some oil deposits cropping up on my valve cover, but only near the firewall. Any idea what this could be?

http://s9.postimg.org/6limu9hrz/IMG_2396.jpg

Also, when I put my ear here(near the throttle) I hear...what I can only be described as consistent airflow...but I can't tell whether it's a vac leak or just the sound of air going through the hoses. My idle is good, so there's that.

http://s7.postimg.org/kd59bw90b/IMG_2397.jpg

Thank you again for your time and consideration.

[jlevie]

The threads are normal right hand type, so lefty-loosen. they can tend to stick into place, especially if over tightened during installation. I'd spray them down with PBlaster or Kroil and give it s few days to penetrate (w/o running the engine) and try again.

I don't know if you were using a 3/8" or 1/2" drive socket. You get more leverage with a 1/2" drive. And you may have to bump the end of the socket handle to break the plugs loose.

Then there is always the option of taking the car to a shop and let a pro have a crack at it.

[FunkySwerve]

Bump!

[FunkySwerve]

Just to make sure: lefty loosey to pull the spark plugs right? I don't want to be wrong and strip the threads!

I gave it a good hand-tug-strength turn on my ratchet but it did not seem to budge at all. In this event should I just blast it with PB?