Dash board lights went out, now no crank?

[dillonsb]

I had the same problem.

#10 fuse blew like 10 times even with testing larger amp fuses.

I am clearly a noobie BUT I can tell you how I fixed mine.

IF fuse 10 keeps blowing remove your shifter boot and inspect the wiring running through that area. It could be shorting against the metal of the shifter or just have a bad connection of some sort. That solved my problem after cleaning that area up. I can post pics tonight if needed

[TimeMachinE30]

The unloader function in the starter solenoid is just a switch. The unloader relays can't prevent the starter from working.

All of your replies this thread are very helpful and generous; thank you.

[jlevie]

The unloader function in the starter solenoid is just a switch. The unloader relays can't prevent the starter from working.

[TobyB]

Fuse 10 supplies the unloader relays, but there's no fuse in line in the crank circuit,
unless you include the fusible link in the trunk. Which HAS been known to have
a bad connection, and the car CAN run with it making intermittent connection... sometimes...

Dang, the starter solenoid's fancy- a pull- in AND a holding coil AND the unloader relays
pulling off of it?

t

[jlevie]

The factory wiring diagrams do indicate that fuse 10 is involved in fuel injection, but you'd have to dig through the ETK to see what role it plays.

[ahrensNW]

Yeah, there's no problem starting now. I'm pretty sure fuse 10 has ties with quite a few things. In the Bentley manual it has quite a list. Including fuel and ignition if I remember correctly.

[Dirty325ix]

Maybe you have a bad ground and it would of started without without fuse 10 it just need time

Next time you drive it a distance try and restart the car right after you completely turn it off to see if you still have the problem

[staysideways]

If you have battery and abs light on. There is a central fuse that gives 12v to ignitiin not sure which one but i can find out for you. Its a 20A fuse.
Side note do you have an after market stereo?

1989 E30 325i Sedan Alpine

[jlevie]

You can dig through the factory diagrams (ETK) found at http://wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm and see if fuse 10 being blown could do this. But my experience suggests that it would not result in a no crank situation.

[ahrensNW]

Fuse 10 would explain the loss of the cluster and could affect starting of the engine as it also is part of the fuel injection system (along with fuses 9,11,12). I haven't dug through the ETK enough to see exactly what part fuse 10 plays in fuel injection. But I can say that the fuel pump fuse is fuse 11.

Fuse 10 being blown isn't going to result in the no-crank situation you experienced. Something else is also wrong and more investigation is called for.

Well, I replaced the fuse and it started right up. I'd be willing to bet it controls part of the ignition system.

[jlevie]

Fuse 10 would explain the loss of the cluster and could affect starting of the engine as it also is part of the fuel injection system (along with fuses 9,11,12). I haven't dug through the ETK enough to see exactly what part fuse 10 plays in fuel injection. But I can say that the fuel pump fuse is fuse 11.

Fuse 10 being blown isn't going to result in the no-crank situation you experienced. Something else is also wrong and more investigation is called for.

[ahrensNW]

Yeah, fixed it this morning. I was just lazy last night and I didn't want to go outside at 130. Anyways, threw the battery on a charger, it was fully charged, so alternator is ruled out. Popped the fuse box lid. Boom. Fuse 10. The dash and fuel delivery fuse. So replaced it, it started right up. Howver, this still doesn't make sense to me. How the hell could my car run and drive perfectly for four miles without the fuel pump running? Does this make any sense to anyone?

Edit: just to clarify this my car ran a good 4 miles home after the dash failed. I turned it off to see if it would start again and it did not.

[jlevie]

This doesn't really sound like the alternator. Since you were driving at night, a failed alternator would have had the car running solely off the battery. In which case lights might have started to dim rather than just go out.

I'm inclined to suspect a bad power or ground connection somewhere. Or possibly a wiring fault.

The first thing to do is to check the battery connections and battery voltage (should be above 12.4v (75% charged). Then if you can get the engine started you can check the alternator by:

A simple DIY test of the alternator can be done with a DMM. At idle you should see about 13.5v and your should see about 14v at 2500rpm. The 2500rpm reading should not drop much if you load the system by turning on the headlights and the HVAC blower to high. If you don’t see those voltages the alternator isn’t working correctly.

In many cases the cause will be worn brushes in the regulator/brush assembly. If the alternator bearings are in good condition a new regulator/brush assembly may be all that is needed.

If you remove the alternator belt, you can check the condition of the bearings. The regulator can be replaced without removing the alternator from the car. When removing the belt you must loosen the pivot bolt at the bottom of the alternator. The top adjustment/lock is obvious, but if you don’t loosen the pivot bolt you’ll damage the adjuster (it it already hasn’t been damaged). If the adjuster is inop, a pry bar can be used to set belt tension.

If you have to replace the alternator, do not get a generic reman (cheap) unit. Those have been known to not work out-of-the box or fail shortly after installation. Use only a genuine factory rebuilt unit. It will cost more, but it will likely work for another 30 years.

[george graves]

More info needed.

[inferno27468]

start looking at ur fuse box and see if any of them are popped. and then look up the e30 fuse box diagram and see what it goes too.I had the same issue with my dash only my car still ran.