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Ok, back from vacation and ready to finish this project. On to the pedal box.
First thing is getting the aluminum bulkhead template transferred to 10 gauge steel.
Then we fabricated the frame rails from 1x1 steel box stock.
Busted out the MIG and Obi Wan went to work. Welder was acting up so his welds looked like mine 6 months ago. :devil:
End result looking pretty good. Unfortunately we were about 1/4" off in 1 plane, so the bulkhead plate did not sit flush. Could have shimmed it, but after a beer and talking it over, decided to redo the frame arms.
Version two fit perfectly. Here it is with the pedal box hung. I like this setup because (a) It has room for the remote brake bias setup, (b) We can access all adjustments with the pedal box bolted in place, and (c) Has room for remote reservoir plumbing. It's rock solid when bolted into the car.
"And then we broke the car. Again."Mark Donohue, "The Unfair Advantage"
So, the pedal box is finally coming together. This is easily the most time intensive system per size we've tackled yet. Well ... maybe the engine was more, but that was so long ago we're over it.
Perfect fit. Good spacing. Should have worn racing shoes for the picture. :devil: Need to add a dead pedal.
Good room for accelerator. Pedals are co-planar. Setup will be great for heel and toe. And its all adjustable if we need to make changes later.
Now, where to put the remote reservoirs? We tried using a single bracket (shown in cardboard) with them in a triangle formation inside the shock tower struts but didn't like the results.
This was the Ah Ha moment. Needed to trim the reservoir brackets in order to get them lower and under the hood line.
Then we busted out the metal break shear. Rob was very happy. :devil:
Mounting bracket looking good
Remote reservoirs assembled. Our design philosophy is "always make it removable". Much easier to assemble or repair things on the workbench.
If something is well engineered it will fit nicely and look good. I like it.
And now you take EVERYTHING off again and design the remote fill hose system, on the bench. See previous post: Make everything removable. You do not want to do this on your back under the dash. Now it's just "turn the crank" engineering to clearance hoses and make sure everything is the right length. While enjoying a beer.
It's Beer 30. Time to knock off. To be continued .........
"And then we broke the car. Again."Mark Donohue, "The Unfair Advantage"
Work intruded on Das Beast this week. Finally back on track today.
Since we are moving the remote fill hoses, had to plug the hole in our bulkhead plate. An electrical panel blank fit perfectly.
Also worked great for an extra hole in the firewall.
Back to the clearance bracket. This keeps hoses from hitting the clutch and brake pedal arm. It's been evolving.
That didn't work. It eventually ended up looking like this.
And ... finally we get to this. Needed to pierce the firewall, but not the wiper motor rain gutter. Will add grommets to keep the hoses away from sharp metal edges.
Inside view.
Finally the end result. Pedals are rock solid, level and co-planar.
On the gas
Heel & toe braking, throttle blip and downshifting. Perfect.
Job well done. Declared victory and called it a day.
"And then we broke the car. Again."Mark Donohue, "The Unfair Advantage"
Quick update. Brake bleeding tool arrived today. After a lot of research I decided to go with pressure bleeding. All the track guys I got info from swore by this method or manual bleed.
FYI, if you have not bled brakes before there are 4 methods:
1. Manual: Put fluid in reservoir, open bleed screw at caliper, pump pedal, close bleed screw, repeat
2. Vacuum: Tool sucks fluid from reservoir via caliper bleed screw
3. Pressure: Tool pushes fluid from reservoir to caliper bleed screw
4. Reverse Injection: Tool pushes fluid from caliper bleed screw to reservoir
Discovered the topic of brake bleeding is basically a Holy War. Found any number of supporting cases for each. Chose pressure bleeding because:
1. Is faster than manual
2. Produces less air bubbles than vacuum
3. Cleaner than reverse injection (fluid coming out of reservoir)
4. Can be done by 1 person when needed
5. Well suited to my brake setup (separate front/rear circuits)
6. Tool was fairly cost effective
7. Tool has option specifically for Tilton masters and reservoir
8. Good reviews of tool on Amazon
We plan on bench bleeding the masters in-car before bleeding down each circuit.
Informed advice welcomed. Please don't turn Das Beast into a brake bleeding Jihad. :devil:
"And then we broke the car. Again."Mark Donohue, "The Unfair Advantage"
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