M20's tick when they are perfect. It's just what they do.
The injectors are very audible.
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ALMOST BLEW UP ENGINE, but how!?
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Originally posted by UgkNW* View PostIf This is true would the bolt on the right being stripped but still sitting in place cause any problems? That bolt o mm my head is stripped but as far as I can see doesn't seem to interfere with anything. That said my valves tick like crazy.
Oh and done mean to thread jack thanks
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Originally posted by AndrewBird View PostYou definitely need the engine hoist bracket as it acts as a spacer for the timing cover.
Oh and done mean to thread jack thanks
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Update pt. 2: I got my new CPS plugged in and the car runs great again. Still having issues with the poor throttle response but overall the car feels more responsive.
I think my next step will be adjusting the throttle cable as I haven't done that yet and it seems pretty loose. Also dropping in some Lucas Oil Stabalizer to help with the slight ticking I am getting!
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UPDATE: I think I found out why I had issues getting it back up and running. Check out the damage on my crank position sensor. Got a new one otw.
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I should have clarified. I meant leave out the dowel.
**BUT, after I did the timing belt job today I turned it on and it idles fine. Only when I gave it a little gas did the belts start to scream and it shut off. I gave it some time and started it back up again and it idles totally fine, and when I give it gas it doesn't die. But, the belts still squeal like crazy. What could this be? I made sure not to tighten them that much. Maybe they're too lose??
It also takes forever for it to turn over now too :(Last edited by Jdub; 07-11-2016, 05:33 PM.
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You definitely need the engine hoist bracket as it acts as a spacer for the timing cover.
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upgrade to the m20b25 forged cam gear while you are in there. also replace the cam seal. cheers
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Your distributor sits on that timing cover, without the engine hoist bracket, not sure if incorrect spacing will cause funny issues with contacts and the rotor.
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As stated above, that looks like the locating dowel for the engine housing bracket and the front timing cover.
If the dowel came out (bolt back out, feel out) it's possible the timing cover slid down and was running against the timing belt. Replace the dowel, the bolt, the timing belt and torque that bolt to factory.
Sent from my 710C using Tapatalk
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If it's only slightly off you shouldn't be having any noticeable issues. Just move the crank gear back into alignment and you should be good to go. Throttle response issues seem to point to something related to vacuum, not timing, but it's kind of hard to tell without actually hearing the engine run.
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Originally posted by gath View PostBy the look of that last picture, that piece looks like one of the dowels that hold the engine hoist bracket. It seems like you are missing it on the cylinder head.
ALSO: when the mark on the camshaft gear is lined up with the timing mark on the head, the timing mark on the lower timing apparatus, I forgot what it's called, is just barely off. Could this be causing the throttle response issues I have? How significant could this issue be for timing even if it's just very slightly off? If this is the issue can I just manually readjust it before putting back the timing belt? That's what I plan on doing as of nowLast edited by Jdub; 07-09-2016, 09:36 PM.
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That's one of the cast ones, not stamped. Stamped ones look like this:
Note the gaps between the teeth.
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Its Hard to tell by the pic, but it looks like you have the older recalled stamped camshaft sprocket. If you take off the plastic cover behind the rotor and take another pic we will be able to tell you if it is or not. If it is than I would replace the sprocket.
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