1986 325e Build w/ M20B25 Swap

[CMatos]

Update: I dropped some parts off at the shop and they checked everything out. Turns out the main culprit was a bad fuel pump relay. This was one of the new parts I dropped off so it was easily replaced. They said that after swapping the relay, its running a lot better. There is still some minor issue, but I'm heading over there tomorrow to check everything out and get more information.

I just figured I post a result since a lot of threads will discuss an issue, but never state what the solution was. Kinda bugs me.

[superj]

maybe you have a work throttle body? like how old carbs would wear at the bushings and cause idle issues and such?

[CMatos]

The csv is next in my list. I did already swap out the afm for a good one. It made no difference.

[jeffnhiscars]

Any unregulated fuel can cause driviability problems so def disconnect the CSV and see what happens. I also didn't see wheremyountried swapping your AFM with amknown good one.

[CMatos]

So I'm sitting here thinking about it and a thought popped in my head. I remember testing my Cold start injector and it spraying correctly. It also operates correctly with the thermotime switch. However, I noticed a very small amount of fuel coming out of the injector when it wasn't powered up. It was a very small amount that was more like weeping. Would this be enough to cause the issues I'm seeing? The car is still at the shop so unfortunately I can't bypass the CSV and test my theory.

To clarify, the injector doesn't leak outside of its housing and into the engine bay. It is leaking from where the injector normally sprays fuel.

[CMatos]

Update: so the smoke test was done and no leaks. Anyone have any other suggestions? I'm at a loss.

[jeffnhiscars]

Fwiw and not to add confusion, my donor trans was from an e and my clutch and fw were i spec

[CMatos]

Based on your parts list, looks like a great starting place for a DE car! The 'i' motor is way better for that. I think we popped 3 b27s doing endurance racing and had waaaaay better luck with b25 with a stock rebuild.

I agree. I just wish I would've made this decision from the start because it would've saved me a heck of a lot of time and some money. Live and learn I guess. I know the stock 2.7 probably would've gotten old pretty quick since it isn't exactly ideal for track use. I know the 2.5 is the better choice for me.

[spec-al]

Based on your parts list, looks like a great starting place for a DE car! The 'i' motor is way better for that. I think we popped 3 b27s doing endurance racing and had waaaaay better luck with b25 with a stock rebuild.

[spec-al]

Hmm.. Definitely looks very similar. I know my flywheel is an 'e' because it does have the metal hump for the CPS. Other than that, they look identical. Once I pull the transmission, I can get them side by side to compare.

Interesting! I assumed all the etas had the boat anchor single mass, but maybe the dual mass isn't that far off from the "i" flywheel...

[CMatos]

This is my "i" flywheel for reference.

Hmm.. Definitely looks very similar. I know my flywheel is an 'e' because it does have the metal hump for the CPS. Other than that, they look identical. Once I pull the transmission, I can get them side by side to compare.

[spec-al]

This is my "i" flywheel for reference.

[CMatos]

Re: the flywheel, I just took a look at your pics and the flywheel looks like an "i" flywheel to my eyes.

The eta flywheel looks like something out of an old timey car... But do a little research.
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=43809

I know that there are two types of flywheel for the 'e'. The single and dual, but Im not sure about interchanging from 'e' to 'i'. I think my safest bet is to use the stock 'i' flywheel with my clutch kit.

[spec-al]

Re: the flywheel, I just took a look at your pics and the flywheel looks like an "i" flywheel to my eyes.

The eta flywheel looks like something out of an old timey car... But do a little research.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=43809

[spec-al]

I could be mistaken, but I believe the use of the 323 TOB comes in play when re-using the 'e' transmission, but I could be wrong. It sounds to me like I shouldn't have any issues with using the 'i' transmission/flywheel and putting in my 'e' clutch kit.

Im waiting on the smoke test now, but Im not convinced that its a vacuum leak. I dont like downtime, so I just want to be proactive here and get my ducks in a row.

I'm pretty sure all the transmission/clutch stuff is more or less interchangeable between the e and i. The 'e' cooling stuff *should* work as Jeff has mentioned, but when I did the swap I got a new water pump, hoses etc. Later cars I think build date 88+ got the revised cooling system (diff rad, water pump, routing, overflow tank).