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No Start Problem Driving Me Nuts!!

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    #1

    No Start Problem Driving Me Nuts!!

    My daily driver is an '86 325 that I converted to i-spec (from an early production '89) a few years ago. Recently the car has been difficult to start, and now it will not start at all. Here is some background information for you all to work with:

    - Replaced C191 connector with WeatherPack connector when I did the swap. (The injector harness had been soldered together where the C191 connector should be.)

    - Upgraded to 415 injectors about 4,000 miles ago (The old injectors were about shot)

    - New spark plug wires (about 4,000 miles)

    - Distributor cap and rotor in good shape

    - Brand new spark plugs. Zero miles.

    - Crank sensor within specs (34,00 miles, maybe)

    - Tried three different ignition coils

    - Checked for spark. EXCELLENT pretty blue spark

    - Almost 24,000 miles on fuel filter

    - Fuel Pressure 40 lbs

    - Fuel delivery (at regulator) exceeds specs (Filled jar before time was up)

    - Both fuel pumps are working (That should be obvious)

    - Brand new IAC valve (Old one was dying)

    - There is more, I'm sure.


    Prior to current no start problem, the car has had to crank over quite a bit before it would start. I replaced the IAC just a few days ago and that seemed to fix the problem, and the car ran great for about a day. Then the misfire returned (at night of course, just like the other two times), but the next morning it would not start at all. Since I knew the spark plugs were getting worn, I decided to replace them, but that did not fix the problem. This is why I have brand new spark plugs with zero miles.

    I am definitely getting spark to the plugs and fuel to the fuel rail. I am now wondering if the injectors are not firing, and if that is the case, why aren't they?

    I don't remember now why I did it, but when I installed the injectors a few months ago I went over the Weatherpack (the "new" C191) connector and the injector harness itself and everything checked out fine. Whatever the case, the car won't start, I am stumped, and I am on the verge of taking the car to a shop. Given that it has been forty years since I took a car to a mechanic, and that didn't end well, this is something I don't even, like to consider.

    So: Lots of spark, she cranks over fine, but she won't go. I need help.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Have you tried starting fluid? A couple sec squirt will get it to run for a few sec if the spark side is OK.

    If that trick works, check injector spray. Could also be anything that makes it run lean. Vacuum leaks (intake boot / purge valve boot / intake gasket..seen #5 and 6 blow) / temp sensor for DME etc.

    Good luck

    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by e30sh View Post
      Have you tried starting fluid? A couple sec squirt will get it to run for a few sec if the spark side is OK.

      If that trick works, check injector spray. Could also be anything that makes it run lean. Vacuum leaks (intake boot / purge valve boot / intake gasket..seen #5 and 6 blow) / temp sensor for DME etc.

      Good luck
      Well, you mentioned a couple of things I did not list above. Intake boot is brand new. In fact I replace it when I replaced the IAC (long story, that). Replaced the DME temp sensor less than six months ago, and when I checked it again it was perfect. If the misfire was irregular and continuous, I would suspect intake manifold, but it is always a regular misfire, and when it has happened, has only happened when the car was warm. In between times when it has misfired the car has run very smoothly.

      Purge valve boot. Now that I will have to check. Again, though, would that cause a regular misfire, like what you would get if one cylinder is not firing?

      Comment

        #4
        Another question: What symptoms would indicate a bad main relay? I refer to the one below and to the left of the fuel pump relay.

        Comment

          #5
          If tour engine is healthy and you have ruled out fuel delivery and spark, there is only one thing left. Timing.

          Fuel, spark, timing and compression. It has to be one of these.

          Comment

            #6
            DME and/or DME relay

            Comment

              #7
              Since my last post I've pulled the ECU and did a pin out check. I have found that I have no power to injectors 2,4, and 6. As per the Bentley, I jumped from 2 to 36 and grounded 16, then 17, in turn. Injectors 1,3, and 5 click just like they are supposed to.

              So, no power to 2,4,6 equals no start.

              I replaced the C-191 connector with a Weatherpack connector when I did the engine swap. I rechecked the injector harness, etc., back in July when I replaced the injectors, and it was okay then. So, it seems the first place to look is going to be my solder joints, but I could use some advice on how to check and see if I am getting power from the ECU to C-191. Any thoughts?

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