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m20 eta multi cylinder misfire

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    m20 eta multi cylinder misfire

    hello all i am new to this community and this is my first post so i apologize in advance if im not doing this correctly.

    i have just purchased my fifth e30. this is my first eta and it is a 1986 325es. all my previous e30's where either i or m3. i never experience fuel issues luckily so this is my first time working on the fuel system.

    so here is what i know from the previous owner. not sure exactly why but he changed both fuel pumps. then was having a issue where the engine would stall out once it came down to 3/4 tank and would not start again....then the car was rear ended while it was parked. the damage was not to bad. i bought the car super cheap. it started right up and drove fine. my friend and i pulled out the pump under the rear seat because i could smell gas inside the cabin. we immediately realized he replaced the original pump with a cheap piece of junk. the fuel sending unit was not sitting flush so we corrected that issue also the tapered rubber tub inside wasent connected properly so we re-zip tied it correctly and reinstalled. drove the car down to 1/2 tank no issues. next day drove it to work and when i came back 6 hours later it wouldnt start. had a steong crank but no start (previous owner also complained sometimes it wouldnt start and that he would come back the next day it would start). would almost fire but die out. pressing the gas pedal did not have any effect while starting. came back the next day. filled the tank to full tank and after many cranks it finally started but it was running with a major misfire. seemed to be misfiring at least two cylinders because the engine was stuttering so hard. i pulled all the plugs and 1 and 6 where completely black and full of carbon. other plugs where worn but not nearly as bad as 1and 6. had the car towed home. inwent over all the wires under the hood and found a few things. the wires going to the icv where frayed so i stripped them back and re soldiered them. i also found two connectors on the drivers side. they are directly underneath the power steering res. on the male side of the connector all the plastic has been cut away and whats left is just the male spades they are exposed and jammed back into the female side of connector ( i wish i knew why someone would do this )

    the car starts fine now but it still has a really bad multi cylinder misfire. i pulled all the plugs and replaced them. still a bad misfire. pulled the plugs again and 1 and 6 where completed black and full of carbon. i check each plug for spark and had plenty spark. checked cap and the points looked pretty good cleaned and re installed. pulled fuel line off 7th injector and had plenty pressure. also rechecked both pumps and i can hear them working. fuel filter seems to be changed recently....

    before i go crazy digging around anymore can anyone offer me advice and next steps. i am thinking bad fpr or icv please advice

    THANK YOU IN ADVANCE AND HAPPY NEW YEAR TO YOU ALL

    #2
    Could try a couple of things:
    1. Strange it runs until a certain tank level. Maybe bad gas (old/gunked, debris, moisture)? Could try draining the tank then refilling with fresh gas. If you go that route I'd change the fuel filter too. Actually, I think I'd change the fuel filter in either case.
    2. You said "plenty spark", but was the gap good? If the plugs had worn electrodes, you'd have a weaker spark, leading to poor combustion and carbon deposits.
    3. Might be due to have your fuel injectors professionally cleaned. 1 & 6 could be sticking open, resulting in a too-rich but still burnable mixture (carbon deposits) or too-rich to the point of a misfire.

    Also, I don't see how a bad FPR would cause only 1 & 6 to run poorly. Bad FPR there would be no fuel pressure at all.
    When the car would stall, would you be idling? If so, maybe the ICV is a problem, but you'd think you'd be able to start again (even if poorly). Although, the intakes 1 & 6 have the long runs on the intake manifold, so if your ICV wasn't opening enough during idle it might make sense that 1 & 6 wouldn't get enough air and be too-rich. Speaking of which, did you check which cylinders were misfiring, or just assumed it was 1 & 6 based on the plug condition?
    Last edited by turbo55; 01-02-2018, 11:18 AM.

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      #3
      thank you for your reply
      1. I drained most of the gas and filled it back up. Fuel filter looks recently changed
      2. I replaced all the spark plugs and after a few unsuccessful attempts to start the engine I pulled them again to find 1 and 6 dry fouled again within just minutes.
      3. I am thinking to pull fuel rail next and check injectors
      4. icv was just replaced by previous owner

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        #4
        i just tried to start the engine for the first time today. it wouldnt start. i sprayed some starter fluid in the filter cone and fired rite up. seemed like less cylinders misfiring today because the engine knock was not as bad. So, I am thinking it must be bad injectors. Does any have a good way to test the injectors while there still in the rail???

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          #5
          Interesting. You can check to see which/how many cylinders specifically by pulling each spark plug wire off one at a time. If you pull it off a firing cylinder, the engine sound will change (engine slows down a bit then picks back up). If you pull it off a dead cylinder, there will be no difference in how it's running, there's your misfire.
          I've never done this, but I remember seeing Edd on Wheeler Dealers (before it became just another expensive paint job car flip show) testing fuel injectors. He had a fuel injector going into a water bottle and was able to see how much was coming out and more or less what the spray looked like (mist vs. stream). Since our injectors are off of a single rail where you have to take the whole thing out, I would think you could do it with six water bottles. For a given amount of cranking time, the amount of fuel in the water bottles should be the same. Also if an injector is shooting a stream instead of a mist that's no good. Also, if you're pulling the injections you'll probably want to replace the o-rings if they haven't been done within the past relatively recent timeframe.
          Again, never done a test like that myself before, but don't see why it wouldn't work. Obviously there are safety precautions that should be considered with fuel...

          As far as getting fuel injectors cleaned, MEPEH on this forum runs some fuel injection cleaning equipment. He did mine and was a great price and did a great job.

          Comment


            #6
            i havent been able to test and see exactly which cylinders are missfiring because i cant get the engine to saty running. rented a fuel pressure test kit today and tested fuel pressure at the rail. builds spec of 36psi during engine crank but leaks out about 10 psi with in 5 min so i pulled the fuel rail to have injectors cleaned and tested

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