Have a car in the shop right now with the same issue. Went to start it to pull in shop, no dice. Open the c191 to see the male pins are black and female are green with white fuzzies on it.
Since you have the tool, start by pulling the pins and seeing if they can be cleaned.
On the phone atm, can look up those pin numbers when on a pc. Just wanted to share to let you know, you aren't alone lol.
EDIT: And now the fuel line just burst under the tank. :/ Never ends....
Random CEL when I hit large bumps - SOLVED!
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Random CEL when I hit large bumps
Pretty sure I suggested that in a recent PM.
The c191 uses the same pins as c101. If you get a pin release tool, you can easily re-pin the connector provided the plastic case is on ok shape. Most of the time I see them with some sort of aftermarket connector. This connector have been a problem spot for s few years now. :/
Yea I think you did too...
I tried to drive it back into the garage last night when I was sort of motivated to work on it and it won’t even start now... lol
I have a tool to de-pin that connector and also a fancy crimper I bought when I was doing my 24v swap but I don’t have any new pins and I don’t know if there’s any place locally that can get them to me quickly. Looks like work will be an interesting day if no doing any actual work :rofl:
Im guessing I’ll need both sides to do it right, which ones am I looking for?
61-13-1-376-191
61-13-1-376-193
61-13-1-376-195Last edited by 2mAn; 04-23-2018, 05:48 AM.Leave a comment:
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Pretty sure I suggested that in a recent PM.
The c191 uses the same pins as c101. If you get a pin release tool, you can easily re-pin the connector provided the plastic case is on ok shape. Most of the time I see them with some sort of aftermarket connector. This connector have been a problem spot for s few years now. :/Leave a comment:
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Definitely does. Its about what I expected. And what a surprise that the one thats giving me issues is the one right smack dab in the middle.
Whats the ideal fix here? I dont want to eliminate the connectorLeave a comment:
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If the X20 connector was /is corroded only cleaning that pins may not be enough
The corrosion can extend into both of the harnesses causing poor connections pull back the rubber boots and have a look
You may need to replace some wire and repinLeave a comment:
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So we cleaned up the harness and it was pretty dirty but it didn’t make any change. So while it was running I pulled each spark plug wiring to see if there was any change and 2,4,6 showed no change...
Ideas?Leave a comment:
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Random CEL when I hit large bumps
Well... now the CEL is always on. I figured ok let me spend my Saturday night changing the CPS.
Old ones looked bad


New one from ECS tuning arrived quick

Figured this would be quick and easy... but I always get nervous with these feelings because....
It didn’t change anything.
It sounds like it’s running on 5 cylinders though. Ian suggested a stomp test so I’m about to go do that.
Stomp test
1-2-5-1
I guess it’s back to the injector harness againLast edited by 2mAn; 04-21-2018, 09:33 PM.Leave a comment:
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Look at your tach when it happens and see if you notice anything obvious.Leave a comment:
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I’m running a vemo.
It’s been almost two years and I haven’t had a problem.
My catalogues only list that one, so I didn’t have any other options
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLeave a comment:
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I think I should just buy a new CPS, but I dont know which one to get. Is this one of those "Buy OEM or you'll regret it" situations? If not, whats a good one thats worth it.
Pelican says BMW is NLA
https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog...pg3.htm#item12
Bluntech only has VEMO (?)
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I was dealing with a similar problem, but my car would buck really badly when the CEL came one.
It ended up being the CPS. The routing for the wiring was incorrect, so when I would hit a bump, the engine would yank on the wiring and cause it to lose connection.
Hopefully you'll find it quickly, because these kinds of problems are usually a PITALeave a comment:
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