Cylinder head noise

[Keith M]

I thought that I may have some valve to piston contact, but:

- It was only milled .005
- It is quite from idle to 1700 rpm's
- The contact would bend a valve, or if minor, would indent the piston and get quieter.
- It had the same sound before the rebuild.

I may get around to working on it today after I move 5000 lbs of dirt and remove a section of fence.

Keith

[joshh]

Hey, I've got an M50 motor you can put in there.:nice:

[Keith M]

Hey, I've got an M50 motor you can put in there.:nice:

I've have nothing but bad luck with this motor so

DON'T TEMPT ME!!!!!

K

[mpunklil]

in that case, i would start tearing into the bottom end and pistons. might as well, you have spent this much money so far. bottom end and pistons wont cost you more than 300 bucks, unless you want to punch it out a little while you are in there :D

[Keith M]

Thought I'd post an update on this.
I pulled the head again and took it to another mechanic. He disassembled it and measured everything and found nothing wrong. So I'm thing that something is fubar with the bottom end, but I did install a IE crank scrapper.
Dropped the pan and lo and behold, the crank was making contact with it in three spots. I guess a big red flag should have gone off when I had to modify before I could install it (around the oil pump and again because it would hit the flywheel) .
Lets see - Pulled head twice, paid for a rebuild and a check, 2 head gasket sets and head bolts - about $ 900.00 and a bunch of hours for all the labour.


I've ordered another gasket set and bolts so I should have it back together this week.

Keith

[BM5W]

Thought I'd post an update on this.
I pulled the head again and took it to another mechanic. He disassembled it and measured everything and found nothing wrong. So I'm thing that something is fubar with the bottom end, but I did install a IE crank scrapper.
Dropped the pan and lo and behold, the crank was making contact with it in three spots. I guess a big red flag should have gone off when I had to modify before I could install it (around the oil pump and again because it would hit the flywheel) .
Lets see - Pulled head twice, paid for a rebuild and a check, 2 head gasket sets and head bolts - about $ 900.00 and a bunch of hours for all the labour.
I have one thing to say:

Fuck You Ireland Engineering and fuck your crank scrappers.

I've ordered another gasket set and bolts so I should have it back together this week.

Keith

Keith,
Glad you found your problem! See you on the track!

-Mark

[mops]

and how did it go ? did it fix the problem ?
I got exacly the same problem. ticking only picks-up after about 1700 rpm's. And it does not tick when cold. only once it's warm up to some point. I'm driving like this for line 2 years, no issues. ticker oil will move the 'start of ticking point' upwards the rpm range. I was thinking it might be a worn valve giude of something ? it is a very metalic tick.... but my motor is stock 130k miles, no crank scraper or anytthing really. adjusted valves no end....

and yes, you can run without rocker cover. i did it. just dont rev it much or it will splatter oil all over... cover the rest of the engine with rags and stuff... but even i had it going wihout rocker cover, i put my hand on every rocker (while running) and tried to apply force in different direction (thinking maybe rockers/rocker shafts are worn...), nada... zip... the tick is loud but i'm unable to pinpoint it. i'm thinking it might be worthwhile to measure ticking frequency and compare to engine revolutions... it it's once per revolution or something...

[Keith M]

I just finished putting it back together on sunday and.....same noise but quieter. JHFC
I think that I have excessive crank movement fore and aft. I'm not sure where the contact noise is coming from. Time to pull the motor and take the bottom end apart... but not now. I don't have the heart for it right now, maybe in the fall.
Scratch the '07 track season.

Keith