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Slave Cylinder Replacement - Need Some Help

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    Slave Cylinder Replacement - Need Some Help

    The clutch pedal in my car doesn't return to where it should. It will stay up if I pull it up, but as soon as I touch it, it shoots to the floor, almost like it's spring loaded for either up or down. Everyone I've talked to says its probably the slave cylinder, but it could be the throwout bearing. Well, I found a cheap slave cylinder, and I'm going to replace that and see what happens. I've searched, but couldn't find a DIY for the job and was wondering if anyone has one written up. Also, how hard of a job is replacing the throwout bearing?

    V1 - Debadged - Painted Reflectors - Black Kidneys

    1987 325e

    #2
    The slave cylinder is not so bad of a job, as long as you have tools.
    you will need to raise the front end of car high, or raise the car and place it on blocks all 4 corners high enough to be comfortable underneath.
    The slave is located on the drivers side of gearbox. You will need to disconnect the tubing first, then remove it by loosening 2 bolts, and it comes right out. Before you install the new one, you have to connect the tubing to it and bleed it.
    Bleeding method:
    -I do this buy opening the bleeder vent screw and then squeeze down on the piston all the way.
    -Fluid will come out of the bleeder (be sure to collect the fluid and not get it on yourself), tighten the bleeder screw before releasing the piston.
    -Repeat this several times until you get good flow with no bubbles and have someone on top checking the brake fluid reservoir to make sure it doesnt go low and to top off as needed.
    -Install the slave into place, tighten the bolts, make sure the piston doesnt go in cocked.
    -start car, test you clutch.

    The T/O bearing is least likely your problem. Unless you know it's on its way out, you can hear the humming noise it makes when the clutch is depressed. The tranny has to come down and out for this. This is something you do along with the clutch and flywheel as a package job (and slave).

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      #3
      sounds more like the master to me, if your keeping the car do them both and be done with it..

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        #4
        Originally posted by Cooper View Post
        do them both and be done with it..
        x2
        Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



        OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

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          #5
          Check master cylinder or brake fluid on carpet by clutch pedal little hose always takes a crap, have to replace the whole cylinder.

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            #6
            newb question.. is it the same procedure for an m42?

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              #7
              I had the same thing happen on a e34 M20. It was the slave. I replaced it for $40 from pelican. I had to bleed it and pump it just like I was doing brakes and it works fine now. It would be good to replace both at the same time but the master is a little tougher. It's up to you but remember if you replace one component then it can cause the next weakest to go out next.
              Naplese30: it is the same for all cars.
              Originally posted by Nicademus
              My car beats off to that car. :bow:

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                #8
                Thanks Kingb just finished replacing it! Bought mine for $35 from advanced auto,,,,, not oem which sucks but I couldnt wait 3 days for shipping. Hardest part was bleeding the new slave... I would be lost without this forum.

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