Car idle problem with video! kinda long

[Demelich]

well time for another update, I drove it some more and it doesn't do any of the things from the last post. But now when I start the car cold it idles at 700 rpm or so, it will stay at 700 rpm all through the warm up. It will idle fine when I first start it but when I drive it and come to a stop it idles around 500 rpm and dips down to 400 rpm. I have had it stall when coming to a stop.

I've got an M42 engine, but I have almost the exact same problem. The car would turn over, then die immediately. I had to hold the gas pedal for the car to stay running, cleaning the ICV with throttlebody cleaner seemed to help this a bit.

When its really cold, the car will idle fine when I first start it, about 700 rpm, but when driving it will die when I push in the clutch and brake to a stop. Cleaning the ICV did not fix this problem.

The previous owner of my car put in a new fuel pump, but who knows, he could have completely screwed up the install causing a fuel problem.

[pwcadie]

OK update! well the new tps did not fix the problem. When I start the car COLD it idles around 700rpm also this is when its stationary. When I moved the car back out of the driveway and stopped I could hear the fuel sloshing (had the back seats off) and when it sloshed the idle would go down to about 500rpm. I'm thinking fuel problem, what part of the fuel system would make this happen?

[pwcadie]

that's really wierd, I tested the TPS awhile ago when I had the first problem and it was fine. Didn't think it was it because it clicked and everything but when I tested it again it didn't "switch" on my multimeter. I'm going to order one and I'll let you guys know what happens.

[houstonh]

sounds like you put in a bad AFM to me.

[delatlanta1281]

Tps?

[pwcadie]

well time for another update, I drove it some more and it doesn't do any of the things from the last post. But now when I start the car cold it idles at 700 rpm or so, it will stay at 700 rpm all through the warm up. It will idle fine when I first start it but when I drive it and come to a stop it idles around 500 rpm and dips down to 400 rpm. I have had it stall when coming to a stop.

[TopOfTheLine89]

Bump for not wanting to see PWcadie pull up in an ugly red oldsmobile anymore.

[Adrian_Visser]

sorry to thread jack but ive got idle issues too namely my idle wants to hunt between 500 and like 1200 rpm.my car is an 84 325e.

ive sprayed every connection and possible opening with carb cleaner with no results. ive cleaned and tested my icv... several times. nothin.

its kind of an intermittant problem too it seems to get worse when the cars warm
removing the oil filler cap and or dipstick doesnt change the idle at all and disconnecting vacuum hoses doesnt do much either like for instance if i disconnect the brake booster line it runs almost the same

if i disconnect the icv electrical connector it goes to the failure mode where it revs up cuts fuel revs up etc

so is this a huge vacuum leak or what?

ive never compression checked the engine but it does use some oil on the highway. could excessive blow by into the pcv system cause these symptoms? there is quite a bit of oil in the throttle body

my intake boot fits a little bit loose on the maf end but once its clamped up i can spray the shit out of it with carb cleaner with no change to the idle, injector o-rings, and all hoes onto the intake boot give me nothin when i spray the connection ends

where else can i look?

[pwcadie]

Oh and I replaced the hoses to the brake booster.

[pwcadie]

well for an update. I replaced the AFM with a stock one and changed the o2 sensor and the idle problem in the video is fixed. After driving it, it stalled when I pushed the clutch in then put it in neutral (moving). I let it sit when I got to my friends house and then I started the car and died, took a few good seconds to start it and I held my foot on the gas. Got almost home and stalled when I came to a stop sign. Took a good 5-10 secs to restart, got it to run and it also bucks when accelerating. Then when I was in 3rd gear and coasting it slowed down as if I was engine breaking yet I was giving it gas, put the clutch in and then it backfires. Put it in 2nd and drove fine. I think I need to drive it for a bit longer. Still wants to die at idle.....grrr.

[mops]

well, the best way to check for vacum leaks is to measure idle vacum. m20b25 should idle around 35-40kpaa at 800 rpm idle...

crankcase is vented to pvc (i.e. back to intake after tb), so if rings are blown big time then it will idle bad, aswell that implies that it might be getting extra air from eg, under oil cap or other crankcase vacum plumbing piece...

simple test, while idling badly, undo oil cap and notice whether idle quality changes... if not then you got somewhere massive vacum leak or damaged or miscalibrated maf.

it could be stuck injector or bad fpr or few other things, but realistically following bentlyy you should perform few tests and report back so we can point you in some direction...

[pwcadie]

damn, that's not what I want to hear.

[xLibelle]

all in all, you have some work to do.

[pwcadie]

Yeah, I'm starting to think its the AFM. I'm trying to find a working one(got the car with the M30 AFM installed).

[wickedE30]

I think it's your Afm,If it was the dme your idle would be surging up and down from 800-1500 rpm.If you have the origanal afm put it in and try it then.