If you have to ask.....
Full dry sump with remote 5qt pot = $2,500-$5,000 depending on what you can do yourself. If you are a checkbook guy figure $5k. If you can weld and fabricate... $2,500 is on the "I got out easy" side...
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Have you ever welded with a TIG before? .120 cast is no problem at all, however I bet it's somewhat thicker than that even.
Obviously, the original poster shouldn't weld his own pan if he's never welded aluminum before, but honestly it's not that big of a deal.
For instance,
Limmet's "budget" E30
Anyways, I'm not advocating either way, but I wouldn't be scared off by a little aluminum welding if you want to go drysump.
BenLeave a comment:
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Now THAT is a skid plate. I don't know why no one has done this before you. I always wanted to make one for Josh while I had access to the CNC plasma cutter at school.Here's my custom skid plate made out of 1/4" T6061 Aluminum.
Should be able to take a hit or 2.
http://picasaweb.google.com/drewcasa...41534737919058Leave a comment:
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Drysump...
Looks easy on paper.
Redefines BreakMyWallet when you go shopping for the parts.
Honestly don't bother. If your pan doesn't take the impact your front subframe will.Leave a comment:
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Skid plate
Here's my custom skid plate made out of 1/4" T6061 Aluminum.
Should be able to take a hit or 2.
Leave a comment:
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I don't quite understand what you are saying here. That I should fabricate the entire oil pan myself out of brand new alluminum? No way in hell thats going to happen. If you are suggesting that after I cut the oil pan I use brand new alluminum to make the "bottom" of the oil pan? Then of course. what else would I do? try to weld the bottom piece that I just cut off back on? thats just stupid and accomplishes nothing.Leave a comment:
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A crank scraper or Acusump (or better yet both) accomplishes the same thing and is a lot cheaper. After I installed an IE crank scraper I've not seen any drop in oil pressure in the corners.Im going to do this to my eventually. Ive also herd during track conditions its helps out a lot. esp for the m20. it helps keep a constant flow of oil going threw out the motor.Leave a comment:
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Don't weld the pan. That cast aluminum is like .120 thick. so being that it is cast, as well as .120 thick, don't even try it. Go buy some 6061 alum. plate from your metal supplier. .120 is fine for this for the bottom because its not cast but I'd just go with some 1/4" all around.Leave a comment:
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Ok thanks for the input, I actually hadn't thought of just cutting and re-welding the oil pan. As for the skid plate, that won't help me much around here. although I will be fabricating one anyways.Leave a comment:
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korman has parts but its expensive.
Im going to do this to my eventually. Ive also herd during track conditions its helps out a lot. esp for the m20. it helps keep a constant flow of oil going threw out the motor.Leave a comment:
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You're not really gonna find a bolt-on pan for this .
You'll have to customize a stock pan by cutting it down and rewelding it .
Then source the dry-sup pump , reservoir and other associated bits from a race supply shop .
Easy .
Also $$$$ .Leave a comment:
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Dry Sump Conversion
I am Considering the lowering of my '87 to get rid of that 4x4 stance and gain some cornering ability. My worry is my oil pan. The bumps, cracks, potholes and roads in general are terrible (and I mean bad, voted worst in Ontario, and would be for all of Canada but for the fact that our most northern provinces are so remote). In light of this I have been wracking my brain to come up with a solution for the clearance of my oil pan of these bumps, cracks, potholes etc. And came up with Dry Sump. I know that this will reduce the pan depth quite a bit, yet I have yet to find a website that would sell such an oil pan for an m20. So tell me, where can I find parts for a Dry Sump conversion, which parts seem to work best? And yes, I am willing to dump money into this even though most of you would consider this a "waste".
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