ok..pls support me in removing my oil pan...

[JRKOUPE]

Im not feeling paying a shop 3-4 hrs at 85 per. I want to install a baffle into my m20 pan.....

Can any1 tell me some of the easier ways( for a DIY like me that does tune ups/ brakes only).......the car will be on 4 JS's. Ive almost convinced myself I cant do this, but I recall doing Bimmerworld tranny mounts and saying......"that was relatively ez".....



any1?.............THANKS

[jlevie]

You'll need an engine brace or some other means of supporting the engine from the top. Then drop the subframe to get clear access to the sump. Pull the sump off and fit the baffle. Every one I've done has required some judicious triming, but that's not difficult to accomplish.

[JRKOUPE]

You'll need an engine brace or some other means of supporting the engine from the top. Then drop the subframe to get clear access to the sump. Pull the sump off and fit the baffle. Every one I've done has required some judicious triming, but that's not difficult to accomplish.

hey JL...are you referring to a crank scraper?..I got me a trick baffle...should need nothing but to be bolted in!

[jlevie]

Yes, I was referring to a crank scraper. A crank scraper does a wonderful job of preventing oil starvation in left hand corners. I've never seen the object you show, nor do I have any idea how effective it might be.

[JRKOUPE]

oil issues

I was able to find out about this baffle from several racers in the PNW. It seems to work well and requires a bit less than the scraper on the installers part. It looks like this oil pan "labor" may be a bit beyond my realm....we'll see, no rush. Thanks much!

[jlevie]

I don't see how that part will prevent oil from climbing the exhaust side of the block in left hand corners, which is one of the problems a crank scraper solves. The other is that it reduces the power losses associated with the crank throwing oil around.

Other than the need to fit the scraper to the crank, installation of a crank scraper is pretty easy.

[JRKOUPE]

oil issues

I can respect that........and I wont pretend to offer an engineering persepective on its design because I cant(hahaha)........

that being said I know its in wide use among Pro3 racers......and it works. Only time will tell on my engine once its instlld.


The scraper by Ishi appealed to me..and still does.....this just seems like a simpler, less time consuming fix and it looks like Ill be paying for labor on this one. I didnt think the power gains of a scraper would be too significant on our m20's, but I hear ya!

[shiboujin]

... you guys make it hard.

loosen the motor mounts so the nuts on both sides are almost off but still have full threading. Jack the motor up on the AC backet. take out the oil pan bolts. then take a 13mm open box wrench and take out the 3 bolts for the oil pump. It drops into the pan and you pull the pan out!

Putting it back isnt as easy obviously but it works. Ive done 3 oil pans this way... dont ask why.

[whiltebeitel]

survey says "bump in the road" on lowered cars.

[Jordan]

... you guys make it hard.

loosen the motor mounts so the nuts on both sides are almost off but still have full threading. Jack the motor up on the AC backet. take out the oil pan bolts. then take a 13mm open box wrench and take out the 3 bolts for the oil pump. It drops into the pan and you pull the pan out!

Putting it back isnt as easy obviously but it works. Ive done 3 oil pans this way... dont ask why.

Good advise here, this is how I do it. I'll also add that I also remove the oil pressure relief valve as well as the pump. Not sure what size wrench loosens it, I always just use a midsize adjustable on it.

[shiboujin]

survey says "bump in the road" on lowered cars.

Nope. Oil return from a turbo then me thinking the gasket was leaking a few times. Turns out the that dumb metal tube from the intake mani was leaking.

[whiltebeitel]

Ah, I was thinking you were experiencing the same things as *some* people on this board who are on their 5th oil pan... ;)

I am now less skeptical of you.

[shiboujin]

Ah, I was thinking you were experiencing the same things as *some* people on this board who are on their 5th oil pan... ;)

I am now less skeptical of you.

Thanks? Ive been doing track days for 3 years and Im still on my first oil pan. Dont get me wrong, its probably half as thick in some places from harsh transitions but its still in one piece.

Honestly, if you know what youre doing, an oil pan shouldn't take you more than an hour. Maybe 2 if its never been taken off before. If you are changing the gasket, dont half ass it and try to shimmy the gasket around the pan. It not only wont work (youll break it most likely) but you really should clean the surface so you wont be doing this again.

My $0.02

[JRKOUPE]

Thanks? Ive been doing track days for 3 years and Im still on my first oil pan. Dont get me wrong, its probably half as thick in some places from harsh transitions but its still in one piece.

Honestly, if you know what youre doing, an oil pan shouldn't take you more than an hour. Maybe 2 if its never been taken off before. If you are changing the gasket, dont half ass it and try to shimmy the gasket around the pan. It not only wont work (youll break it most likely) but you really should clean the surface so you wont be doing this again.

My $0.02

an hr or 2....?


that makes me cringe more about paying 250 -300 for a 3 hr labor job at a shop.

[shiboujin]

Well thats my estimate if you know what you're doing. Most shops dont have E30 forum logins or good manuals that give you tricks like we do. IE they probably drop the subframe and support the engine.

I mean. I can take my diff out in 15 min with just me and no lift.

Look at it this way. If you manage it in 2 hours, youre worth $125-$150 an hour!