1.3 Motronic Up-Grade & 2.7i How To

[10-66kruk]

Okay so i have been testing power to everything. The dme, the relays, the starter, the alternator, the power junction box, the fuse box. I found that pin 37 isn't getting power. Also the middle relay I'm not exactly sure which one it is but the point 88 is not getting power. The other two have power on 86 and 88 while key is on. Also I cant seem to figure out how to solve the problem that pin 37 doesn't have power I have been searching and haven't found a definite answer. Also the dme is also getting all grounds that it should at all the points. Also the two plugs that come right off the the dme harness, white and black plug I dont have any where to plug them into on my 85..
If any one has any other advice that would help. I need to get this running its sitting in my friends garage taking up his only place to park.
If some one local to Lake Forest that knows how to solve this wiring gremlin I am willing to pay 150$ want my car running for dockweiler.
Thanks

[lateracer]

If everything is connected properly like you say, then low battery power might be to blame. Otherwise, something probably isn't connected correctly. Start by checking your motor ground strap. I had the same thing you're describing happen to me (everything connected, hit the starter and nothing) and it was the ground strap.

[10-66kruk]

Hi
so I just did my swap and I am hoping to get some advice or help to point me in the right direction.
I am using a seta block with a i head. All I know about the block is that it is a 88. Also the head is running dual valve springs. The motor is in a 84/85. I used a harness out of a 89. Only reason I did was because it was free from a friends car. I also read on strictly eta that the harness shouldn't matter. So the problem I have encountered is that i am not getting any power. I connected the square body harness to the round c101. So one of the main relays is clicking when I try to start the car and everything is hooked up properly. If someone can point me in the right direction that would be greatl appreciated.

[e30huh]

use the "e" coolant/temp sensor. the 2 back one off of t-stat, coolant (blue) will have 2 prongs and temp has 1 prong (brown)

you will also need to get the 89+ "i" oil level sensor (on top of oil pan) different connector.

on the purge canister, there is also a connector on there too, but you can leave it unplug, i pnp mine so i can feel confidence with all the electrical.

[acolella76]

so let me get this straight, the only sensors that NEED to be switched are the temp sensors and crank position sensor? The rest are the same?

[acolella76]

Is there any way to test if sensors work? I'm pulling my harness and sensors from a junkyard... i want to make sure everything works before i put it in the car.

[hotballs]

There are 4 sensors in the e thermostat. There are 2 in the i. Either you get that extra one different sensor in the i thermostat and two bolts and put that in the e thermostat or you just get an i thermostat with the 2 bolts and 2 sensors in it. It's just easier to swap in the i t-stat and I mean it's another 5 bucks or something once you're grabbing everything else you need for the swap at the yard.

[SoopaGhetto]

The temp sensor for the e and the i is the same so it would be the same connector. You need the i thermostat housing with all the sensors in there to go with the i harness.

is that really a NEED or a worth while suggestion? If the connectors are the same, wouldnt it be a matter of connecting the i harness to the e sensor and be done? im trying to minimalize all the crap i may need to pick off but i think i may just put the i head on the e bottom. could the eta water pump be used with the i head? i dont want to go out and get another radiator...or is it dependent on year?

[hotballs]

The temp sensor for the e and the i is the same so it would be the same connector. You need the i thermostat housing with all the sensors in there to go with the i harness.

[acolella76]

so do all the sensors HAVE to be replaced with newer ones? It seems like the difference between most of them is just the connector... could I just splice old sensor to new harness?

[hotballs]

. but i have no clue when funds would be available for boost and id rather boost with 9.0 (731 head) than 8.X (885 head)

im about to just get an 'e' head and drill the fuckin holes myself and get i cam/springs...but im afraid of it blowing up from lack of lube due to improper drillin :(

at pick n pull, i got EVERYTHING except trigger wheel/afm/icv/ecu for around 50 bucks no joke. thats why im anxious to put on that manifold hahahaha

Yeah it's nice and cheap at the p'np. Why would you rather boost with the slightly higher compression 731 head? Lower compression is better for more boost, 8.2:1 885 head 2.7 block. 9.0:1 isn't really crazy high though.

I have a 731 head with i valves and an i cam. We had enough room to put +1mm on the intake side and +2mm on the exhaust side of the valves. So the exhaust valves are just straight i valves, but the machinist ground down the intake valve by 1mm to fit whatever meat was left in the smaller seat of the 731 head. All the machine work was $425. So that's about the bulk of the swap for me.

It rips to say the least! If I was going turbo I would just use an 885 head. Cheap simple and the cam and all that are already in there. If you drill the holes on the 200 head and put an i cam in with dual valve springs, then that's also doable. You just have to assemble and reassemble the head which isn't too hard, maybe lap the valves. You can see where you have to drill the holes, it's like a 1/8" drill bit. Either way this is all pretty much just cheap/free moddin, so if you fuck up you can do it again.

[acolella76]

yea thats what im doing. changing out all the 'e' electronics for 'i' electronics as well as the intake manifold. But you are saying that its not worth it? i coulda sworn i saw a thread about the intake being changed out and seeing a difference. But id rather not waste time doing just the intake if its gonna be negligible. i almost wanna just put the i head on and be done since im going turbo hopefully. but i have no clue when funds would be available for boost and id rather boost with 9.0 (731 head) than 8.X (885 head)

im about to just get an 'e' head and drill the fuckin holes myself and get i cam/springs...but im afraid of it blowing up from lack of lube due to improper drillin :(

at pick n pull, i got EVERYTHING except trigger wheel/afm/icv/ecu for around 50 bucks no joke. thats why im anxious to put on that manifold hahahaha

Go ahead and put on the manifold. It will give you more mid-range power but it will all be restricted by the smaller valves on the 'e' head resulting in not a huge improvement in high end power. I guess you could get the valves opened up to 'i' specs and use 'i' valves... but that would be mucho dinero.

Seems like you're doing what I'm doing... motronic swap in prep for boost :pimp:

[SoopaGhetto]

You won't be able to run the 'i' AFM with the 'e' harness/dme. You could just change the harness and everything including the dme, but you need at least an i cam and dual valve springs to really utilize it. etas are the same as the 325i up to about 4500 rpm whether or not they have a bigger intake it's not going to make a difference.

You should be able to use any of these DME's, but I'm not sure what the differences are.



The temp sensors are the same, and you can splice that wire.

yea thats what im doing. changing out all the 'e' electronics for 'i' electronics as well as the intake manifold. But you are saying that its not worth it? i coulda sworn i saw a thread about the intake being changed out and seeing a difference. But id rather not waste time doing just the intake if its gonna be negligible. i almost wanna just put the i head on and be done since im going turbo hopefully. but i have no clue when funds would be available for boost and id rather boost with 9.0 (731 head) than 8.X (885 head)

im about to just get an 'e' head and drill the fuckin holes myself and get i cam/springs...but im afraid of it blowing up from lack of lube due to improper drillin :(

at pick n pull, i got EVERYTHING except trigger wheel/afm/icv/ecu for around 50 bucks no joke. thats why im anxious to put on that manifold hahahaha

[acolella76]

so you can splice the 'e' temp sensor wires to the 'i' harness instead of new sensors and a housing?

[hotballs]

Are there any differences between the e and i temp sensors? I know the 'i' thermostat housing only has two sensors and the 'e' thermostat housing has 3 but im referring to the actual functionality of the primary sensors needed for 1.0/1.3 operation (excluding the thermal time). im thinking the dme/cluster coolant temp sensors are the same...

Also, when pulling the harness of an 87 325i, i noticed that the oil pressure sensor uses a fuel injector looking clip but only one wire. the 86 es i have only has a single wire spade type connector. would that oil pressure sensor fit in the same place or would it be better to just splice that connector?

there was a 90 525i which im pretty sure utilizes the m20. would anyone happen to know what dme it may have? i think i read 340? should be comparable to 173 and be better than 153 right?

currently im attempting to do just the 'e' to 'i' 1.1/1.3 conversion with just the 'i' intake/tb and afm. im hoping this would give my eta a nice pick-me-up due to the the better engine mapping

You won't be able to run the 'i' AFM with the 'e' harness/dme. You could just change the harness and everything including the dme, but you need at least an i cam and dual valve springs to really utilize it. etas are the same as the 325i up to about 4500 rpm whether or not they have a bigger intake it's not going to make a difference.

You should be able to use any of these DME's, but I'm not sure what the differences are.



The temp sensors are the same, and you can splice that wire.