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    fuel rail

    how hard is it to remove the fuel rail so i can replace the o-rings for the injectors?

    #2
    Couple of 10mm bolts, pry CAREFULLY straight up.

    Easy stuff, bubba.

    Closing SOON!
    "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

    Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

    Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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      #3
      Very easy. Pelican Parts has a pretty good write up. I just replaced my injectors, going slowly and carefully I had them out in 20 minutes.

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        #4
        undo injector harness connector below throttle body
        undo temp sensor cnctrs by thermostat housing
        remove injector, temp sensor harness
        remove return line (have rags handy)
        remove pressure reg (have even more rags handy there will be fuel spillage)
        undo vacmm line from valve cover
        remove intake support from intk to valve cover
        remove valve cover
        lift fuel rail up, will take some force but not gorilla just work it gently
        remove rail with injectors
        clean pintle caps on injectors flush them and replace orings
        put a bit of oil on each oring and reinsert unto fuel rail gently
        line up injectors so connectors face towrd you in a stragiht line
        reinstall into head
        line up connectors again on injector side
        install injector harness
        install valve cover
        install intake support brckt
        install vacuum line
        install connectors to temp sensor
        install fuel return
        install fuel reg
        conenct injector harness connector back to main harness under throttle body

        done it in 20minutes last time at it... shouldnt take more than hr while drinking beer and taking your time
        sigpic
        - 0.05s and 0.1s FTW!!!

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          #5
          do i really need to remove things like the valve cover? or is it just as simple as undoing those bolts that hold the fuel rail in place, carefully pulling the injectors out, replacing the o-rings, pushing the injectors back in and bolting it down again? how many o-rings are there to replace? 6 or 12?

          also is there some chemical that i can use to maybe scrub or something the crud on the injectors off?

          and is there a way to test my cold start valve or cold start injector?

          thanks for the replies.
          Last edited by Bimmerboy91; 03-27-2008, 09:00 PM.

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            #6
            You don't have to remove the valve cover...although it might give you a bit more clearance, but why take the chance in getting things contaminiated?

            I have to pull mine this weekend...focker is leaking
            BMWCCA #389756

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              #7
              you dont need to remove the valvecover if you have 6 individual wire connectors. but if you have a solid electrical rail like me you need to remove the valve cover. also if its the solid rail the clips need to be pulled out not pushed in.


              7speedshop.com

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                #8
                I didn't pull my valve cover off, just had to take the oil cap and the cold start bracket to squeeze my rail out. There are 2 o-rings on each injector, the lower ones are harder to change out - just be careful not to crack the plastic tips as they are usually kind of fragile. You can clean them out with brake cleaner, here is the link to the e30 pelican parts article:

                Is your car running sluggishly? Are you noticing a slight stumble as you drive? Chances are, your fuel injectors need to be cleaned.


                procedures for testing cold start are in the Bentley, which you should have if you don't already

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                  #9
                  There's no need to pull the valve cover off. The injector wiring loom will fit between the intake and valve cover easily. The injector rail can pull out from the front with minimal wiggling around.

                  I bought a spare set of used injectors and gave them a thorough cleaning, including a soaking for a day in injector cleaner. Then put on new orings and pintle caps. This way I could have the car running again with no down time.

                  If you replace the orings and pintle caps yourself, warm up the pintle caps in hot water before installing them on the injectors. They're a very tight fit on the injector and I cracked two of mine in my cold garage. ( I did this in January)

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                    #10
                    ok well i replaced the o-rings and cleaned the injectors. although i still have black smoke coming out the exhaust and it is bogging down. so whats next? FPR? cold start valve?

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