Raising the motor

[Yakinho]

You would still have to protect your oil pan. Dry sump would do absolutely nothing if there's a hole. Horrible suggestion. even with custom pan that looks as the rear of the pan the whole way.

I say air-bags. You'll be able to drive on the street and lower it so you can look at it in your drive way.

Of course you'd still have to protect it, but with the bottom of the pan being higher up, he wouldn't have to scrape that part of his plate every single bump.

Bags would be awesome.

[e30this]

I just had 1/4 thick aluminum welded on mine..

[Aptyp]

Didn't see this earlier, but have you considered a dry sump system? You'd have to make or get the pan custom made, but in your case, it might save you some money in the end!

You would still have to protect your oil pan. Dry sump would do absolutely nothing if there's a hole. Horrible suggestion. even with custom pan that looks as the rear of the pan the whole way.

I say air-bags. You'll be able to drive on the street and lower it so you can look at it in your drive way.

[Yakinho]

Didn't see this earlier, but have you considered a dry sump system? You'd have to make or get the pan custom made, but in your case, it might save you some money in the end!

[bmracer19]

have you not seeen the ones from ejnight: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=111469

Steel or aluminum, M20 or 24 valve, M3 coming soon, M30 coming soon too, truly awesome work.

Ok guys, I ordered the e28 M5 mounts and the steel skid plate from ejnight. I have already replaced my broken oil pan with a brand new one. When I get my parts in I will drive it and see what happens. I hope that I dont bust another oil pan with this set up. But if I do, I have a complete air ride setup waiting to go in the car. I dont want to have to resort to air ride, but if thats what it takes, then thats what I'll do.

Luke, Thanks for the help bro! I appreciate it.

-Carlo

[StereoInstaller1]

We need steel m20 oil pans available!

have you not seeen the ones from ejnight: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=111469

Steel or aluminum, M20 or 24 valve, M3 coming soon, M30 coming soon too, truly awesome work.

[StereoInstaller1]

Carlo, I think simply finding a taller motor mount is likely to be about all you can do. You will be adding a tiny bit of stress to the driveshaft, but that should not be a serious issue.

Shifer mechanism should not be too much trouble either, but I think you will only get an inch or so before all of the above become issues.

So yeah, raise your motor an inch, or raise your car an inch: same result, right? E28M5 motor mounts look taller to me and are stronger, too. Combine that with a tougher skid plate and you might be on to something.

Either way, keep us posted.

Luke

[kenika65]

We need steel m20 oil pans available!

If I was u I would get some 5series Motor mounts, and they will lift your motor about an inch higher and wont hit the hood.

[jlevie]

If the car is so low that you are taking out the sump on a regular basis, raising the motor is just going to move the impact point from the sump to the steering rack and cross-member. And you aren't going to be able to raise the motor much (maybe an inch) before the transmission and bell housing run into the body.

If you really want to do this you'll need to change the motor and trans mission mount and re-engineer the CSB. You need to preserve the alignment of the drive train, which means that the engine will go up more than the transmission and that the transmission will move up more than the CSB. Even with that, the rear u-joints on the drive shaft will be working a lot harder and have shorter life unless you adjust the angle of the differential mount.

Sounds to me like a lot of work , with a dubious result, compared to simply raising the ride height an inch or two.

[Igorionia]

thinkin of doin the same thing as you bmracer19

[AlarmedBread]

While you could just shim up the engine/trans using spacers under the mounts, you'd alter the drive line angles and cause some serious issues.I suppose you could use wedges/shims to correct the CSB and final drive angles. Not sure how much extra room you could get doing this.

Whats the problem with the skidplate? is it bending and touching the oil pan causing it to crack?

If so, add some reinforcement to it, even 1/8" skin is overkill unless you're going for a rally. Think something like this that will support the weight of the car without touching the pan. Yes it's an extreme example, but you get the idea. A simple bit of sheet with a bend or two isn't enough.

[bmracer19]

Hey guys, I searched the forums about raising the motor. I want to raise my motor to give my oil pan more clearance from the ground. I dont want to have to raise my car up because I like how my car sits. I have a 666fab aluminum skid plate but Its not doin me any good. I am going to make a new skid plate with 1/4inch or thicker steel plate or diamond plate. I would like to raise my motor in addition to the skid plate. I can also make new motor mounts and tranny mounts out of solid aluminum or maybe steel, or maybe some washersbut I will experience a rediculous amount of engine vibrations, which I would rather not have.

I know, I know, Some of you will say raise the car. Some of you will say I am stupid for riding as low as I am. Some will say my wheels and tire combo is too small, which is adding to my lowness. And some of you will have some comments that are irrelevant to the what I am seeking help for. But its ok, it is a forum after all.

But in all seriousness, if anyone out there has any suggestions or has seen these type of modification on an e30 with an m20, I would greatly appreciate it if you chimed in.

Thanks,

-carlo

The project car.... http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=112892