Im new to these boards but have prior knowledge on breaking in performance engines due to my last build of a 3076'd vw 1.8t.
For anyone reading the opposing opinions on engine break in, nando was correct about the acceleration and deceleration and not holding a steady rpm, drive it hard for the first 300-500, avoid heavy boost however.
I followed just about the same procedure as explained by nando, and i have had my big turbo 1.8 on teh road for almost 20k, i drive it hard everyday, and due to a correct break in procedure my CR is still spot on.
Just thought id clarify, for anyone still wondering.
OH AND OF COURSE VERY NICE BUILD YOU"VE DONE THERE.
I recently picked up an 85 325e as a daily and plan on doing a similar setup, congrats on your build!
-
Yea, there are a lot of vacuum lines. All necessary however, and only 1 "tee" in the whole setup (FPR and RRFPR share). I will clean it up in the future by changing those two straight vacuum barb fittings to 90 degree fittings.
Made a $150 order to Summit today, should address a lot of the issues. Nice big air filter too.
As for the tail-lights, I got them in a junkyard while traveling for really cheap. I primarily drive the car at night (camouflage, you know) so it they're fine. They aren't as dark as the picture makes them out to be.Leave a comment:
-
-
-
holy rack 'o' vaccuum lines batman. Be careful with those smoked tails, I am running a set like those, and less than 5 days on the road, someone ran in the back of me. No damages, but still....Leave a comment:
-
Just thought I'd update this old thread, for posterity.
Did the break-in. First thing was ~20 3/4 throttle accelerations/decelerations in 1st gear. Essentially I just drove with constantly varying RPM for the first 100 miles, with lots of engine braking. I kept it under 3500rpm during this period, and I would gradually raise the RPM limit 1000rpm every 100 miles or so. Started boosting slightly after 300 miles. Once I hit 500 miles, I started using full boost. Oil change at 10, 85 and 500 miles. This is all from memory, but it sounds right-ish.
The compression test I did today (700 miles) went well. It wasn't a very scientific test because it was impossible to count the number of cranks when the battery was fully charged (starter would spin too fast), but it did give a rough estimate.
133 140 131 129 130 135
Even these rough numbers were within 7%, so things are OK in the engine thus far. I am pleased.
You should really check valve clearances after a few hundred miles. Mine had gone out-of-spec during the first 500 miles.
Engine bay (needs a bit of cleaning up):
The car:
Leave a comment:
-
-
not to be a noob but whats welding a head and O ringing a block mean? Is O ring the block essentially putting O rings on top of each cylinder instead of a gasket? doesn't metal to metal not seal completely? and whats welding the head? close the cooling passages?Leave a comment:
-
engine ground huh wow glad it is running!!
Now its time to race or spank my m42!!!Leave a comment:
-
Ended up being a bad engine ground. Cleaned it on a whim and she started right up. She's running great right now, I've put about 85 miles on her. Changed the oil today and there was no metal specs that I could see, so all is well.
Leave a comment:
-
-
Nice build man!! I am also just finishing my Turbo setup on my M20. I am quite amazed with the break-in advices given above...!!! I never ever heard of anyone saying you should drive a new engine hard!!
What power do you expect to make? Also...abit off topic...what do your M20 Turbo's down there do on the quarter??
Keep up the good work!Leave a comment:
-
Well, it doesn't run yet. I realized my problem while I was at the library. Unfortunately I won't be able to work on the car till Wednesday once I'm finished with a few tests.
It is killing me having to study right now instead of driving to the garage and finishing this thing up.Leave a comment:
Leave a comment: