you're better off priming the pump, then you never have moving parts with no oil on them.
if you already have it out of the car, it should be even easier to prime it since you can more easily get that cover off.
My 2.7i Build
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Haha, kinda. I'm actually building the engine completely out of the car and then dropping it in as one piece, so I don't know if I'll be going that route. My engine builder just suggested cranking the car with no spark before I start it, so I'll probably go that route.if it's already got it, you don't have to worry too much.
you can pre-prime the oil pump pretty easily on an M20. There's a little round aluminum plug with a BMW logo on it near the intermediate shaft. If you remove this you will find a shaft, a couple plastic washers, and a gear - remove them, and using a long hex extension (they make them specifically for priming oil pumps, but you can probably rig something up), turn the oil pump with a heavy duty drill (clockwise) to build pressure & fill the oil filter. You can turn on the ignition (but don't start) and wait for the oil light to go out. after that, put it back together and start it up. :)
hope that makes sense!Leave a comment:
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if it's already got it, you don't have to worry too much.
you can pre-prime the oil pump pretty easily on an M20. There's a little round aluminum plug with a BMW logo on it near the intermediate shaft. If you remove this you will find a shaft, a couple plastic washers, and a gear - remove them, and using a long hex extension (they make them specifically for priming oil pumps, but you can probably rig something up), turn the oil pump with a heavy duty drill (clockwise) to build pressure & fill the oil filter. You can turn on the ignition (but don't start) and wait for the oil light to go out. after that, put it back together and start it up. :)
hope that makes sense!Leave a comment:
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The engine was put together by a shop, so it could be they did that already. Seems like some things are a little oily, but I can't tell what's what.
So just spread it liberally over everything in the bottom end? Or what?Leave a comment:
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yeah, engine assembly lube. you can get decent stuff at napa for around $5 a tube.Leave a comment:
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So, should I put anything on the bottom end internals before I put the oil pan back on? Seems wrong to leave it dry...Leave a comment:
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Seta is the year that is split. So you could have either. The quote you posted is the only difference and it is in the type of bearings that go into the blocks. You can't interchange the bearings because the lock tabs on the shells and blocks are totally different. Is there any true advantage? Dunno, both styles of bearings have run for hundreds of thousands of miles without problems. Plus, there is also a third style of bearing that go in these blocks that have a single tab bottom and dual tab top bearing shell.
To be sure which one you have, pull a main bearing cap. Just make sure you get the right replacement bearings. I wouldn't spend a lot of effort trying to find "the better" block.Leave a comment:
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Could you explain in more detail why the earlier block is better than a late? I have a seta block so which one would I qualify for, and how would I confirm this?they are definitely not the same, BMW changed the design of the bearings sometime between build dates in 87/88. late bearings do not fit in an early block and vice versa - I feel a bit lucky that I got an early block with the better bearings. it's not just the oil groove either, the thrust bearing is 360 degrees on the early blocks and only 180 degrees on late blocks.Leave a comment:
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they are definitely not the same, BMW changed the design of the bearings sometime between build dates in 87/88. late bearings do not fit in an early block and vice versa - I feel a bit lucky that I got an early block with the better bearings. it's not just the oil groove either, the thrust bearing is 360 degrees on the early blocks and only 180 degrees on late blocks.-haha yea you got me... I was typing too fast!
-As for the main bearing differences, I was not aware of any differences, every one that I've seen apart looked the same to me. I was not putting you down due to "newb" status, I was honestly disagreeing with you (well, trying to, save for the typo!)
-I will still say that TO THE BEST OF MY KNOWLEDGE (ive rebuilt two m20s, and seen numberous others apart) that the two blocks are the same. BUT that doesn't mean that you are wrong, it means I will agree to dissagree, until others chime in on the subject.
-That being said, even if you are correct, the two blocks are entirely interchangableLeave a comment:
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I am painting it red as an homage to the volvo redblock engine, which has been powering the car that has been hauling my ass around while I blow money on the e30.Awesome build and great work. But dude, That block (with all due respect) Please repaint it....... any other color..... Black maybe?
Just razing you though. StereoInstaller and I are doing the basic same build for my car right now. I should be done in a month or so. Keep up the great work!
Trust me, I don't like "bling" in the engine bay at all. There is no chrome piping or blue couplers in my engine bay, everything that can be made black or OEM looking has been. However, a bright engine block serves the purpose of making it easier to track down any leaks, should they arise. Tracking down a leak on a black block is nearly impossible.Leave a comment:
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Awesome build and great work. But dude, That block (with all due respect) Please repaint it....... any other color..... Black maybe?
Just razing you though. StereoInstaller and I are doing the basic same build for my car right now. I should be done in a month or so. Keep up the great work!Leave a comment:


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