No start: Fuel problem

[Schniddy]

^ If this is the case, would the pump still run during a jump?


My day was dedicated to studying so I wasn't able to get to the store to pick up a guage, but I was able to confirm that the fuel pump 'runs' by jumping the fuel pump relay.

Tomorrow I'll get numbers to help see if the eaither the fuel pump or FPR are the cause.


Maybe it's the battery? :

12.2 w/ the ground still connected
11.6 with the ignition/headlights on
11.9 once i turned the ignition back off

[jlevie]

Your battery is very low (12.2v = 50% of full charge) and that isn't helping. Once the battery gets that low the system voltage may drop below what is required to run the DME during cranking. Connect a battery charger overnight and see if it will come up to full charge (12.7v).

[Schniddy]

I brought the battery to autozone to be charged already, so it's at good as it'll get.


If the fuel pressure is adiquit (s) in both locations the next two logical explinations would be the battery or a vacume leak at the intake mani or that vent tube.

Is there any trick I could perform to check for vacume leaks with the engine not running?

[Schniddy]

-I wasn't able to get a hold of jumper cables yet. Would the car still crank w/o enough volts to start it? I don't think so..


-Both autozone and advanced do not have the correct fuel pressure gauge along with a T fitting. They both said you have to make something. How or is there any where I could purchasing this?

-I tested out the AFM and intake air sensor. How do these numbers look?

AFM sensor- ohms rise steadily as you open the flap door. So that checks out ok

Intake air sensor- 2830 ohms @ 71F inside the AFM

The book calls for 2700ohms MAX @ 68F. Close enough? If so, the AFM checks out ok.

[Schniddy]

Ok, So I have noticed this very, very odd symptom that has only happened twice.

I've had a moderate "popping" sound comming from what sounds to be possibly the exhaust system when I turn the key to the on position. This is without cranking the car or anything, just turning the key. Very odd, and it has only happend twice.

possibly from a build up of fuel from cranking the engine?

[Schniddy]

-I wasn't able to get a hold of jumper cables yet. Would the car still crank w/o enough volts to start it? I don't think so..


-Both autozone and advanced do not have the correct fuel pressure gauge along with a T fitting. They both said you have to make something. is there any where I could purchasing this?

-I tested out the AFM and intake air sensor. How do these numbers look?

AFM sensor- ohms rise steadily as you open the flap door. So that checks out ok

Intake air sensor- 2830 ohms @ 71F inside the AFM

The book calls for 2700ohms MAX @ 68F. Close enough? If so, the AFM checks out ok.

anyone?

[Schniddy]

Well, without some info I was forced to just order a new FPR. Time to start fishing..

[Schniddy]

FPR is comming in today.

I went to test the amps on the fuel pump the other day and didnt get a reading. I jumped the relay and then put one connction to the male side and one to the female, just like the benley says. Nothing came up.

Is this possible even with the fuel pump 'working'?

[Schniddy]

I/8"NPT is the thread size, nit the diameter of the barbs. I think the barbs I used were for 1/4" hose.

Yup, I went back to exchange the size.
The fuel pressure gauge did nothing, it didn't give a reading...

You said to purchase an air gauge, correct?

I went with a 1/4th Tfitting instead of the 1/8th due to the guages that were avalible there, would this cause the a reading not to come up?


sorry for the big pic:

[Schniddy]

Also, put in a new DME.

:/

[jlevie]

The picture suggests to me that you have the gage in the outlet of the FPR rather than in the inlet to the fuel rail. The inlet to the fuel rail is almost against the firewall and almost underneath the intake. The outlet of the FPR is an open return to the tank and thus would have zero pressure.

[Schniddy]

You are correct, it is attatched to the outlet to the FPR. I thought the bentley gave pressure readings for the outlet of the FPR? I.E If I attatched the gauge there, then I would get a reading.

The inlet to the fuel rail is against the firewall? The only fuel line attatched to the fuel rail is directly below the FPR, where I have the guage attached right now. I thought that was the inlet to the fuel rail. Am I missing something?

[Schniddy]

switched it to the inlet, It leaks so i'm going back down and fixing that to get an exact reading for you. However, it did jump up to 40psi ( you said 43 is the correct) so after I get it good from leaking, I think that will confirm my fuel is fine.

spark-check
fuel-check
injector signal-check
new dme-check
temp sensor- check
tps-no continuity at WOT
CPS- check *due to fuel pump working*

I'm going to check the timing ONE more time. Theres a small chance in the back of my mind that I didnt resent the tensioner after I reinstalled the belt a while back.

[Schniddy]

Fuel pressure is @ 43psi

[Schniddy]

stop test still doesn't work, even with a new DME