So I checked my fuel pressure at the cold start valve and it seemed quite low so I replaced my FPR and main fuel pump with bosch units. I replaced the cracked fuel lines and throughoughly checked the newish looking vacuum hoses for leaks and found none. I tested the TPS and its good. The afm wiper looks okay, but I think someone turned the CO2/bypass screw on it. I replaced the o2 sensor to no avail. I cleaned all the plugs (which I won't replace only to foul them 'till the engine runs right) and replaced the coolant temp sensor that feeds the computer.
The car still hunts from 600 to 1200 for the idle, but that's actually not my main concern. I will deal with the ICV and ICM later.
I would say that about only 1/3'rd of the time I start the engine does it run properly. It will start and run terribly rough at about 400rpm and resist increasing the revs being very lumpy. It is undriveable like this and usually just stalls out after a few seconds if you don't keep stabbing the gas pedal. It feels like its running on anywhere from 3-5 cyls.
Otherwise it will start and run normally, save for feeling like its hesitating and it will often cut the motor at about 4k rpm instead of redline. Generally it just has crap power.
The exhaust smells terrible.
I found this connector just chillin' near the firewall directly behind the intake manifold. Where does it go and what does it do?
I've used the bentley manual but I just get run in circles by it. Before they tell you to check something, they tell you to check something else first, and when you turn to that procedure they tell you to check something before that!
Can I test the timing/position/rpm/wtf-ever-they-are sensors on the bell housing? I have a craftsman DMM that can check duty cycle.
I can't justify taking this thing to the shop because I know all too often how they just don't diagnose things properly and I just can't afford the labor or parts rates they charge. I'm comfortable doing all sorts of work on cars, but this is the first real challenge I've had in the sense that it needs real diagnosis of multiple systems, rather than just swap out shocks or brakes.
Any advice for a newbie?
The car still hunts from 600 to 1200 for the idle, but that's actually not my main concern. I will deal with the ICV and ICM later.
I would say that about only 1/3'rd of the time I start the engine does it run properly. It will start and run terribly rough at about 400rpm and resist increasing the revs being very lumpy. It is undriveable like this and usually just stalls out after a few seconds if you don't keep stabbing the gas pedal. It feels like its running on anywhere from 3-5 cyls.
Otherwise it will start and run normally, save for feeling like its hesitating and it will often cut the motor at about 4k rpm instead of redline. Generally it just has crap power.
The exhaust smells terrible.
I found this connector just chillin' near the firewall directly behind the intake manifold. Where does it go and what does it do?
I've used the bentley manual but I just get run in circles by it. Before they tell you to check something, they tell you to check something else first, and when you turn to that procedure they tell you to check something before that!
Can I test the timing/position/rpm/wtf-ever-they-are sensors on the bell housing? I have a craftsman DMM that can check duty cycle.
I can't justify taking this thing to the shop because I know all too often how they just don't diagnose things properly and I just can't afford the labor or parts rates they charge. I'm comfortable doing all sorts of work on cars, but this is the first real challenge I've had in the sense that it needs real diagnosis of multiple systems, rather than just swap out shocks or brakes.
Any advice for a newbie?
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