Fuel Pressure

[Leeroy]

I have a 1989 325is. It has been cutting out really bad to the point that the motor dies. It cuts out at idle and when accelerating enough to give you whiplash. I have done everything electrical you could do. Changed wires plugs, changed coil, changed crank sensor. And I checked the fuel pressure and it was at 42psi idle and 38 psi a little past 2500rpm. Is that about the right pressure for the fuel to be at?
Thank you for the help guyz.

[StereoInstaller1]

Pull out the main relay and take a picture, post it here.

NINJA EDIT: Did you clean the injector harness connector?

[SpecM]

fuel pressure's about right, not bad enough to cause the problem you described anyway

[Leeroy]

Pull out the main relay and take a picture, post it here.

NINJA EDIT: Did you clean the injector harness connector?

No I haven't cleaned them. What should i use?

[SpecM]

No I haven't cleaned them. What should i use?

electronics cleaner spray, can buy at auto parts store. Also sold as 'MAF cleaner'

[StereoInstaller1]

I prefer CRC brand, I think it is #23.

Clean the hell out of that harness, it is directly under the throttle body.

[Leeroy]

I prefer CRC brand, I think it is #23.

Clean the hell out of that harness, it is directly under the throttle body.

I cleaned the harness... It's still cutting out bad. It has to be injectors, whats the best way to test them. I can't take the manifold off because the former owner has stripped all the bolts where the manifold meets the head. I've tried everything and nothing helps. Fuel pressure is fine going into the fuel rail. It tested 42psi at idle and 38 at 2-3500 rpms. Any other suggestions, I really appreciate all the help.

[StereoInstaller1]

Wait a minute here...did the PO strip the studs, or the holes the studs screw into, or just the nuts?

[Leeroy]

Wait a minute here...did the PO strip the studs, or the holes the studs screw into, or just the nuts?

Just the nuts. They are rounded off, reason for him stripping the studs is I guess he did'nt put penetrating oil on the bolts before trying to take them off.

[StereoInstaller1]

I cleaned the harness... It's still cutting out bad. It has to be injectors, whats the best way to test them. I can't take the manifold off because the former owner has stripped all the bolts where the manifold meets the head. I've tried everything and nothing helps. Fuel pressure is fine going into the fuel rail. It tested 42psi at idle and 38 at 2-3500 rpms. Any other suggestions, I really appreciate all the help.

I would say the chance of ALL of your injectors crapping out at the same time is nil.

You sure the cheezedick PO didn't cause a vacuum leak or some other basic issue?

[smoke4ndmears]

loose battery terminal?

lol?

[StereoInstaller1]

loose battery terminal?

lol?

My wife's car was stuttering, hard starting, and shutting down while she was driving.

I checked the main relay and it was oxidized badly on the contacts, so I am sure it was worse on the inside.

Swapped that sucker out, runs smoother and stronger, starts flawlessly.

So yeah, ALWAYS looks for the simple shit first. Everytime I hear someone say "My car ran perfect before, then it quit starting, so I swapped out the coil and cap and rotor and spark plugs and the brake rotors and replaced the windshield and it STILL won't start!"

So not to talk shit about the OP of this thread, but a fucking tune up is not gonna make that kind of difference. This is an issue, not a time to fine tune something.

Keep looking, this issue is electrical, I will bet as much as 50 cents on it.

Hell, maybe even a buck.

Luke

[Leeroy]

My wife's car was stuttering, hard starting, and shutting down while she was driving.

I checked the main relay and it was oxidized badly on the contacts, so I am sure it was worse on the inside.

Swapped that sucker out, runs smoother and stronger, starts flawlessly.

So yeah, ALWAYS looks for the simple shit first. Everytime I hear someone say "My car ran perfect before, then it quit starting, so I swapped out the coil and cap and rotor and spark plugs and the brake rotors and replaced the windshield and it STILL won't start!"

So not to talk shit about the OP of this thread, but a fucking tune up is not gonna make that kind of difference. This is an issue, not a time to fine tune something.

Keep looking, this issue is electrical, I will bet as much as 50 cents on it.

Hell, maybe even a buck.

Luke

haha, It is most definitely electrical. I changed out the main relay and im still having the same problem. Honestly I think it is the Injectors, But I can't get them out to have a good look at them. Mechanically the engine is sound.