AFM Resistance Specs?

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  • SlowGoinE30
    Noobie
    • Oct 2008
    • 17

    #1

    AFM Resistance Specs?

    Does anyone that has a bentley know if it specifies what the resistance should be?

    I know it should increase as the flap is moved, mine does until about half way open

    I cant remember exactly at the moment but I think it started at 190 ohms and went to 281 before it just flatlined.

    Can anyone verify if this is correct? I just seem to be having a lack of power issue with the car, that I'm trying to diagnose.

    I can also hear a really loud buzzing noise outside of my drivers side wheel. I'm guessing this is the fuel pump.. is it supposed to buzz so loud or should I be buying a new one?

    So far everything else I've checked has been within spec,

    Thanks for any help in advance!
  • jlevie
    R3V OG
    • Nov 2006
    • 13530

    #2
    That doesn't sound right. Try:



    for a test procedure
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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    • Stevie30
      E30 Mastermind
      • Apr 2007
      • 1534

      #3
      Originally posted by jlevie
      That doesn't sound right. Try:



      for a test procedure
      Very good information. I have one waiting to be rebuilt.

      1991 325ic and 1991 318is

      Comment

      • SlowGoinE30
        Noobie
        • Oct 2008
        • 17

        #4
        I saw that yesterday, I just didnt know if it should be the same readings, they all could have been calibrated for different resistance or maybe not? ( that one in the article is specifically a 944 AFM, )

        I'll do the 9v test today and see what happens.

        From what I've read though the sensor strip usually wears out where you do more of your driving, the first bit of it seems fine, Just after say 60% open, it never reads any higher resistance.

        Anyway thank you for the info, I'll give it a shot!

        And clarification the fuel pump sound is from my rear drivers side wheel.

        Comment

        • jlevie
          R3V OG
          • Nov 2006
          • 13530

          #5
          A loud high pressure pump (on this car in front of the driver's side rear wheel) usually means that the pump is soon to fail. But a clogged filter or a defective transfer pump can cause the high pressure pump to have to work too hard and make noise. So before replacing the pump, make sure that the rest of the system is in good working order and that the tank doesn't have a layer of rust sediment in the bottom.
          The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
          Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

          Comment

          • SlowGoinE30
            Noobie
            • Oct 2008
            • 17

            #6
            Thanks for the advice,

            The car sat for at least 2 years. Long enough to make the tires actually have flat spots, or worse.

            Working out all the bugs to get it back to its former glory.

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