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HELP!!! Oil Pan stripped

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    HELP!!! Oil Pan stripped

    So last night I was changing the oil for the first time in my '88 IS and as I was backing it out, it never got finger loose until it was almost all the way out. I pulled the plug out and found the threads from the oil pan on the plug. Is there any fix/way to repair the threads withouth replacing the oil pan or am I SOL?

    #2
    Just get a bigger plug and re-tap the hole


    2.7L M20 11:1 COMP 195 whp Dyno Dynamics 2380lbs

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      #3
      It's not too tough to find oversize plugs, some of which are self-tapping. You could also shell out for a M12 helicoil kit. Just make sure (duh) to get all the chips out. Grease on the tap works well, but that won't get everything. Maybe pull the oil level sensor and pour some solvent in there with only the front of the car on jackstands.
      sigpic

      Mike

      '91 325i track car. Mostly...

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        #4
        Drill + Helicoil would be the right method otherwise the next time you go to change your oil you'll have to fight it again.

        BTW...I highly recommend removing the oil pan for this!
        East Tennessee Euro Werks
        Maryville, TN

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          #5
          I would also agree that removing the pan would be the way to go. Engine do not like metal shavings. Depending on how bad the threads are torn up, you might be able to just clean them up with a tap and not have to put in a helicoil or similar.

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            #6
            There's no need to remove the pan just to install a Helicoil or Timsert. Fill the groves in the tap with grease (to collect the swarf), take a few turns on the tap, remove the tap clean & re-regrease, and repeat.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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              #7
              Originally posted by jlevie View Post
              There's no need to remove the pan just to install a Helicoil or Timsert. Fill the groves in the tap with grease (to collect the swarf), take a few turns on the tap, remove the tap clean & re-regrease, and repeat.
              Agreed....No need to pull the pan, any small amount of debris that would find its way into the pan will stay at bottom and even if it happens to be sucked up and get by the strainer (highly unlikely) the filter will get it
              It is also aluminum (very soft metal) ....not a big deal IMHO


              2.7L M20 11:1 COMP 195 whp Dyno Dynamics 2380lbs

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Dyno4mance View Post
                Agreed....No need to pull the pan, any small amount of debris that would find its way into the pan will stay at bottom and even if it happens to be sucked up and get by the strainer (highly unlikely) the filter will get it
                It is also aluminum (very soft metal) ....not a big deal IMHO

                IMO this is courting disaster... no matter how soft the metal is, if it is deposited between a crank journal and the bearing surface (a VERY soft metal itself), it is certain disaster. How is this possible with an oil-filter equipped car? high-pressure bypass, thats how. Be safe, pull the pan and do it right!

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                  #9
                  i helicoil pans all of the time, to get the shit out just pour a quart or two of oil in and the spoil from the tap will be carried out, you could just pour the oil you drained out to fix the plug through the engine as that's handy

                  not a fan of the self tapping plug as i have seen a few where the plug cracked the pan rendering it near useless, fixable by welding up the hole and crack then drill and tap

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                    #10
                    ok...thanks for the help. I guess its pretty clear what i need to do. Drain it, tap it, flush it

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