Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Need help with 325i

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Need help with 325i

    I have yet another idle/performance issue with an M20. I have searched through alot of threads, but every time I try to replace what someone else has suggested, I get nowhere, and it is costing me money.

    I have an engine that runs rough at start, does the idle search thing (ICV works), has a hesitation when I hit the gas for just a split second, revs through the range just fine when it gets going, and got decent gas milage until recently.

    I have replaced the main and fuel relays, cap and rotor, wires, plugs, coolant temp sensor, the sensor next to that, hose that runs to from the intake to the valve cover, adjusted the valves, cleaned the ICV, and tried to adjust the TPS. I have also just replaced the O2 sensor.

    The funny thing is that it will idle fine if I remove the FPR vacuum line and just leave it suck air. It will try to die again when I reconnect it.

    I have also been told that the MAF that is in my car is a rebuild. I don't know if that matters, but the valve in it seems like it turns alright (seal on the top has been compromised, but clean inside).

    Edit: Another thing, is the MPG gauge on the dash. After doing some of the parts replacements, I also tried to adjust the TPS, as well as clean some of the parts out in that area. Since then, the MPG gauge now pegs out to 40+, until I get going, and then pegs down to the 0. Once I let off the gas, it slams back over to the 40+ side. If it goes to the middle for any reason, it does not st there long.

    If anyone has any idea what is going on, could you please advise. I am spending way too much money trying fix this, and afraid I will either have to sell it (no time to keep this up), or pay a mechanic more money I just won't have. Thanks.

    Oh, and if anyone in the PDX has an extra MAF I could try, I would appreciate it.
    Last edited by Amarak; 02-20-2009, 03:41 PM.

    #2
    Dumb question since you just handled the part and probably would have noticed/commented but; when you removed the vacuum line from the FPR did any fuel leak from the FPR?

    The diaphragms do occasionally leak which would explain the rough idle (rich condition) along with the drop in fuel mileage.

    No other ideas here.
    https://www.facebook.com/pages/Durocco/148629038574264

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by ansonivan View Post
      Dumb question since you just handled the part and probably would have noticed/commented but; when you removed the vacuum line from the FPR did any fuel leak from the FPR?

      The diaphragms do occasionally leak which would explain the rough idle (rich condition) along with the drop in fuel mileage.

      No other ideas here.
      No, no fuel leak. Thanks for the idea, tho. This is really frustrating. Good thing I love my car so much.

      Comment


        #4
        Tee in a gauge at the inlet to the fuel rail and see what the pressure is. It should be 3.0bar if the FPR is working properly and the return line to the fuel tank isn't obstructed.
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by jlevie View Post
          Tee in a gauge at the inlet to the fuel rail and see what the pressure is. It should be 3.0bar if the FPR is working properly and the return line to the fuel tank isn't obstructed.
          Going to get a pressure gauge today and try that out. If the return line is plugged, what would be the correct way to remedy that?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Amarak View Post
            Going to get a pressure gauge today and try that out. If the return line is plugged, what would be the correct way to remedy that?
            replace the rubber, and blow out the hard line w/ compressed air
            1989 cirrisblau-metallic 325i

            Comment


              #7
              hey did this ever get fixed? i have the same problem mine is a super eta... only thing i didnt do is trying to adjust the tps... somebody help! it would be another e30 on the road haha
              Originally posted by scabzzzz
              Wow. This thread is just full of r3v's elite isnt it? From the college virgin to the racist with an ugly girlfriend to teh mad tyte dorifto guy.. Jeez.

              Comment


                #8
                anybody, help?
                Originally posted by scabzzzz
                Wow. This thread is just full of r3v's elite isnt it? From the college virgin to the racist with an ugly girlfriend to teh mad tyte dorifto guy.. Jeez.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Amarak View Post
                  I have yet another idle/performance issue with an M20. I have searched through alot of threads, but every time I try to replace what someone else has suggested, I get nowhere, and it is costing me money.

                  I have an engine that runs rough at start, does the idle search thing (ICV works), has a hesitation when I hit the gas for just a split second, revs through the range just fine when it gets going, and got decent gas milage until recently.

                  I have replaced the main and fuel relays, cap and rotor, wires, plugs, coolant temp sensor, the sensor next to that, hose that runs to from the intake to the valve cover, adjusted the valves, cleaned the ICV, and tried to adjust the TPS. I have also just replaced the O2 sensor.

                  The funny thing is that it will idle fine if I remove the FPR vacuum line and just leave it suck air. It will try to die again when I reconnect it.

                  I have also been told that the MAF that is in my car is a rebuild. I don't know if that matters, but the valve in it seems like it turns alright (seal on the top has been compromised, but clean inside).

                  Edit: Another thing, is the MPG gauge on the dash. After doing some of the parts replacements, I also tried to adjust the TPS, as well as clean some of the parts out in that area. Since then, the MPG gauge now pegs out to 40+, until I get going, and then pegs down to the 0. Once I let off the gas, it slams back over to the 40+ side. If it goes to the middle for any reason, it does not st there long.

                  If anyone has any idea what is going on, could you please advise. I am spending way too much money trying fix this, and afraid I will either have to sell it (no time to keep this up), or pay a mechanic more money I just won't have. Thanks.

                  Oh, and if anyone in the PDX has an extra MAF I could try, I would appreciate it.
                  the mpg gauge problem is because you missed up with the TPS, TPS is responsible of the MPG gauge.
                  my suggestions on the idle problem i suspect the you have a faulty TPS please check resistance or try another one.TPS is a bitch i'm having some kind of the same problem but unfortunately i'm in undeveloped country where TPS O2 sensors are off the market plus they didn't call this problems. LOL

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X