harmonious dance with pliers on fuel line..

[Tree18is]

just like it reads.

the car wont start with the fuel line on. FIll up the fuel rail un hook the line car fires right up.. and runs and r3v's and everything! but of course when it runs out of gas its dead.

(fyi) car has 19lb injectors and Ebay CHIP, I drove the car for about 30 minutues and it was fine, turn car off to adjust the 3.0 z3 lever and the shit hit the fan.


Now for the dancing part. If I hook up the line and let it fill the rail and build pressure then clamp the line car starts up a little rough but then is fine. now the dance goes like this

Three WOT blips, unclamp the hose(reclamp), three wot blips, Clamp un clamp, and on and on and on..

if you dont do this the car wont run....

its so weird.. Im thinking regulator which I will get at the junkyard tomarrow. it has a new filter

[Dyno4mance]

It sounds like it is somehow vacume locking.....Is the return line blocked or crimped anywhere?
It could be damaged at the rail where the fpr plugs into the rail
Try removing the fuel tank cap before starting it....

[jlevie]

It rather sounds like the engine is flooding out at start. The first thing I'd do would be to check fuel pressure at the inlet of the rail (Tee in a gauge). If the fuel pressure is normal, revert to the stock 14lb injectors. If fuel pressure is too high, replace the FPR and make sure that the return line to the tank isn't obstructed.

[Tree18is]

I have two PFR in hand Ill try them but no way im going back to stock in jectors who ever fuckn took the manifold off last time CUT the harness so its all but connected together. im possible to just remove easily.. im so pissed off at that person, Ill swap the regs and see how it goes, and clear the line back to the tank.

[jlevie]

What year car? If a post 9/87, the injector harness is connected to the main engine harness via C191 (under the intake manifold) and is easily replaced. If an early car, you'd have to splice into the main harness.

Swapping in a different FPR is no substitute for proper diagnosis. The replacement FPR could be bad (unless it it a new part), or the problem could lie elsewhwhere. Hi Thee to Lowes, Home Depo, or the like and obtain a gauge and fittings to properly test the fuel system. You'll also need a bit of injector rated hose, but that can be had at any auto parts house.

I really don't understand the obsession with installing "uprated" injectors. The stock injectors have plenty of head room for full fuel delivery at WOT if the rest of the fuel system is operating properly.

[Tree18is]

Mr J levie, I agree with you on the injector thing.. everyone I know in california with an m20 has chip and the 19lbs, I just googled the elevation differences and there 1050 feet higher than me..

also, Gonna need a new throttle body, or junk yard one because mine has been tampered with and Armen At TNG auto told me I would probably not be able to re adjust it. with the tools I have.

this is what I found, The plugs are soaked and fowled, celaned em the best i Could with wire brush and re-installed them and the car fired ran and rev'd intill it loaded up and fowled them again, me and armen think the TPS isnt picking up that its suppose to be at idol and inturn is flooding the cylinders with fuel. So tomarrow I will most likly make it stock and see what happens.
AFTER of course the injectors and throttle body are replaced.

Me and armen where on the phone doing every thing we could to make sure and thats what we came up with, I cleared all the lines with air so I know im getting return and supply, about one quart of fuel in 20 seconds my eye guage says thats enough, But I will deffintly keep the FP gauge in mind to test it. If I cant get this car running by sunday I will need to let the little brother barrow my 318 and I will most likly have no clutch or no car when I return.. fuck my life..

[jlevie]

Even with out the DME seeing the idle switch position, the injectors shouldn't be flooding out the engine that fast. Running rich at idle and WOT, yes. But not flooding like that. I really suspect that you have excessive fuel pressure. Either from a bad FPR or an obstruction in the return line to the tank. A fuel pressure check would be the first thing I'd do.

[Tree18is]

so your saying fuel pressure on the return side or the inlet?

Check both of them probably but is there a spec for "return fuel pressure"

and this just in, The line isnt perfect there is a little "warble" in it. its not kinked shut or damaged but its squished a little, Ill try to find a way to get it out of there and see what happens.

[jlevie]

The pressure check is done at the inlet to the fuel rail as you can't get to the outlet (where the FPR snaps in). There should be no pressure at the outlet of the FPR.

[Tree18is]

when I take the line off the fuel pressure reg it flows very well. so im assumeing there is pressure behind it, and when you unsnap it you get a nice little mist show.

Im gonna make the fuel pressure tester right now and see whats the specs lm looking for probably like 60 or so?

anyways thanks alot for the help and coming back to answer my questions.

[jlevie]

Normal pressure would be 3.0bar, or 44psi. There should be no pressure at all at the return line to the tank.

[Mastrcruse]

Is this an e or i motor?

[jlevie]

Is this an e or i motor?

Good point! I've been assuming that it is an M20B25 rather than an M20B27. If an ETA car, normal pressure at the rail would be 2.5bar.

[Tree18is]

its an I car. 2.5

I have put everything back to stock including the chip.

however the car has now decided that it doenst want to produce spark or fuel.
I hope its not the computer. Im gonna get a crank sensor and see what happens.

[MR 325]

Is the chip in backwards?