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    Persistant starting issue

    Ever since I got my car, it's never been able to start with the first turn of the key. One day last year, it wouldn't start at all. So, taking the advice of forum members and friends, I replaced the crankshaft position sensor/engine speed reference sensor. It started up again, but still took two or three tries to finally start. I replaced the coolant temp sensor this past friday and immediately after I did so the car started every time I turned the key and seemed to run better in general (no more rich fuel smell from exhaust). Later that night, it started doing the same thing again. It won't start up right away and it seems to be running rich again. I reviewed the service records and it shows that the CTS was replaced recently in 2005. The records also show that the car came back weeks later reporting the same problem. Any ideas what could be wrong?
    Last edited by EvoStevo; 02-24-2009, 04:08 PM.

    #2
    Fuel Pressure Regulator. My guess is that over night, the fuel in the rail leaks out through the regulator. It takes multiple cranks to get the fuel pressure built back up in the rail. But, that's just a guess.
    1987 E30 325is
    1999 E46 323i
    RIP 1994 E32 740iL
    oo=[][]=oo

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      #3
      Originally posted by Hallen View Post
      Fuel Pressure Regulator. My guess is that over night, the fuel in the rail leaks out through the regulator. It takes multiple cranks to get the fuel pressure built back up in the rail. But, that's just a guess.
      There's a strong fuel smell every time the car turns over. Could the regulator still be the problem?

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        #4
        Originally posted by EvoStevo View Post
        There's a strong fuel smell every time the car turns over. Could the regulator still be the problem?
        if you smell fuel, its most likely fuel line issue. There are multiple variables, FPR being one of them.

        - check all yoru hardlines
        - fuel filter
        - rubber hoses going to the fuel filter
        - rubber hoses connecting to and coming from the hardline under the brake booster.
        - fuel pump
        - fuel pressure regulator
        - injectors

        If you dotn smell fuel as much, it could be a spark issue. but sensors are easy to test. dont be a parts swapper. Test all the sensors, and check all the hoses. Definitely replace the fuel filter if you havent done so.

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          #5
          I replaced the fuel filter about a year ago. I'm not really sure what to look for when checking the condition of the lines, but I'll look again to see if anything looks out of place. The fuel smell seems to be coming from the exhaust. How would I test the fuel pump and injectors?

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            #6
            Bump. I might just be paranoid now that I've been told that it could be a fuel pump issue, but after I shut off my car tonight I heard a buzzing noise coming from the general vicinity of the fuel tank. Disconnecting the battery didn't stop it though, so I have no idea what it was. I also noticed a huge dent on the passenger side of the fuel tank. I've really got no clue how that got there.

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              #7
              to check the flex lines just use your hand to squeeze the line and all the way front to back to see if there is any leaks.

              If your gas smell is coming from the exhaust, then it may mean its burning really rich. your o2 sensor maybe bad.

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                #8
                Originally posted by thereisnoyun View Post
                to check the flex lines just use your hand to squeeze the line and all the way front to back to see if there is any leaks.

                If your gas smell is coming from the exhaust, then it may mean its burning really rich. your o2 sensor maybe bad.
                I suspected that the car was running rich due to either a bad CTS or a bad o2 sensor. It apparently isn't the CTS. Would a bad o2 sensor cause my starting issues?

                Also, after I disconnected my battery, my idle is searching like crazy. Once I'm off throttle, the RPMs dip below 500, then up to 900 or so, then back down again until it finally comes up and idles normally at 750. What the hell?

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                  #9
                  pmed you.

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                    #10
                    try to take your idle air control valve out and clean it. i think i shot brake cleaner through mine. after that it idled fine.

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                      #11
                      The idle is smoothing out a little more every time I drive it. I think disconnecting the battery must've made the ECU forget everything from the past 20K miles. On Friday I'm going to test the coil, check the engine grounds, check the FPR, see if I can figure out how to test the fuel pump, and replace the coolant temp sending unit I broke last week.

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