pillaged the hoard
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It feels to have much more torque but I think it may have more to do with the higher compression as well. I will be curious what figures you get out of them -
Yeah, born in the vee engines, automatic thinking. After going back to the machine, was daydreaming (thought experiments) and answered my own question lol. Most of my work was 60? which weren't "as" bad as 90?.
Feel nice and torque-y? I making a couple of similar combinations ATM, can't wait to get some numbers on them. One is gonna go in a locals' race car, so it will definitely be dyno'd at some point. :)Leave a comment:
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You still have too much V in your blood, inlines aren't sensitive to rod and piston weights as long as they are matched. No calculating and using bob weight voodoo involved with inline and h-opposed crank balancing.
It is running well, I haven't been driving it much as the registration is outdated and I still haven't gotten around to it and now it is a bit apart with the SC project going on 8^)Leave a comment:
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Revisited this thread as it's interesting you cut the pistons to clear the crank, rather than turn the crank (my lathe is JUST large enough to turn them). At first I was curious about the balancing, but after cutting up some long skirt 9.4:1 Euro pistons, I realized that the m20 pistons are within a few grams of m54b28 pistons. However, the m20 130mm rods are quite a bit heavier than the m54 (40gm difference) which leads to my question:
How is the engine "shaking out"? lol.
I know using one rod from a different engine makes a noticeable vibration at 6-7000 rpm. We spun a bearing last year (literally 5min to go in a 14hr race, and our second car got t-boned on the same lap :/) and in a rush since we only had a couple weeks between races, so just threw another rod in. It was one of the lighter m20 rods, so it couldn't be weight matched (A1 vs B6). Curious what the +40gm does without a re-balance.Leave a comment:
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Come on now, world record R&R is 1:04, you should be able to do it around 2 mins!! 8^)
Apparently a Ford Escort is even easier with the tranny(makes you wonder on the axles...) and a few seconds less @ 0:42
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_c...&v=te48ucoEvFI
At the old bug-in shows they used to have competitions and it was typically a little under 3 mins if I remember for a two man teamLeave a comment:
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thats awesome.There's a beetle that frequents our racing tour. There's a rule that we can't be in the hot pit more than 30min for repairs as to not congest other teams from fuelling. Every single race they blow a motor, and have a system down where they can swap it in about 14min.
Those air cooled rear engine cars can be swapped pretty fast. When i worked in an air cooled porsche shop we could get a motor out in 12 minutes, not swapped in 14 but still pretty impressive I thinkLeave a comment:
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I do, and yeah...
When we were in Daytona racing the e30 in a 14hr endurance race last year, there happened to be an air cooled VW show/meet the same Sunday. I would gather there was about 1k cars, huge park. Didn't plan on going, but a local friend up there told us about it so we just stopped in on a whim. Aside form a 67 that we fixed up about 4yr ago, lost touch with the air cooled community in early 00's. There was a beautiful 23 window with the Safari vented windshields there, totally was drooling over it!
My buddy had a camper bus when I had the beetles. We went and hit up a few Phish shows in it. Riding 6 deep in a stock '70 camper, we were lucky to hit 60mph lol. Later that year he did a 6mo tour with Phish, he wasn't overly handy and had an engine problem between concerts, so he just left it on the side of the highway and hitched a ride for the rest of the trip. I was furious - told him we could easily change the engine if needed right on the side of the road using minimal tools.
There's a beetle that frequents our racing tour. There's a rule that we can't be in the hot pit more than 30min for repairs as to not congest other teams from fuelling. Every single race they blow a motor, and have a system down where they can swap it in about 14min.
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Nice! love to have one of those, you happen to keep up with what those go for nowI had a 23 window 65 VW van dlx that I bought from a dealer after they pulled the engine and the customer traded it in. Fortunately I had bought a 1500N Porsche engine in boxes which boosted the hp 25%...from 32 to 40 :)
picked it up in time to head to Woodstock never to return. We now return control of your tv to you
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I had a 23 window 65 VW van dlx that I bought from a dealer after they pulled the engine and the customer traded it in. Fortunately I had bought a 1500N Porsche engine in boxes which boosted the hp 25%...from 32 to 40 :)
picked it up in time to head to Woodstock never to return. We now return control of your tv to youLeave a comment:
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I only had a 100psi gauge so why it was only a "well over" statement, could of easily been twice that.
I was into the VW scene before working at the BMW dealer, I had ~20 that I have owned and flipped. my first car was a 67 Karmann Ghia and have had beetles, squarebacks, buses, rabbits, scirocco. My favorite was probably my 67 bus with a 1776 with dual 44 Webers and I had a couple Veeps one had the turbo motor in it for a while.Leave a comment:
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Strange. I wouldn't think 100psi could push one out - 12mm cap @ 100psi is only something like 45 actually pounds of force, and I know how much effort it takes to get them in. Couple of my racing e30 buddies deleted the oil pressure relief valve in their m20's they easily see 90-100 psi on a cold start (we all use LM 10w60 oil) and haven't seen one "sneeze" out yet.
I had 2 Beetles. '71 SB (last year with flat windshield), painted purple with frenched in teardrop taillights (bought it that way), stock motor - and then a 70 standard Beetle, painted teal with white window rubber, louvered running boards, Porsche 14" wheels, balanced 1600, smoothest flat 4 I have ever driven. Thinking about it just aged me, that was ~25yr ago. o.0Leave a comment:
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Correct sneeze not freeze 8^)
So it was common to put high volume oil pumps in 'air' cooled VWs running coolers and filters and circulate lots of oil for cooling. I think it would overwhelm the relief valve when cold and would get well over 100 psi oil pressure and push out the plugs, I never lost a plug but did expand a few oil filters in my time.
I had a built 2016(78.4 Okrasa forged counter weighted x 90.5 Cima) with a RayJay B40 turbo w/MBC and 45mm DCOE side draft hanging off the side of it, this was back when boost was still pretty much uncharted waters.
We also were running a pink VW fiberglass buggy with a turbo 1835 at the SoCal VW drags (and streets) back then if anyone was into that scene 8^)Last edited by whodwho; 10-24-2019, 07:20 AM.Leave a comment:
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i think he mean sneeze as in the oil pressure ejected them? rather then freezeLeave a comment:
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Do you still have the same cell #? You went off the radar for, dunno, couple years :PI was hoping you hadn't given up on me!! 8^(
I thought it needed the embossed bead to compress a seal correctly?
Really I don't know if many(Any?) do, that is an old school habit from my built VW motor days and they were known for sneezing plugs. Probably not an issue with iron blocks{?} but I have heard of Chevy guys threading them as well so I am not that crazy! 8^)
There's an AMC core still sitting here with your name on it, just need to know what valves you went with.
"Freeze" plugs are really core plugs where the molds had to be released when casting, or where tooling had to reach inside to the casting core (if they were strictly for "freezing", they wouldn't be in the oil galleys :P). Welsh/core plugs don't require any kind of sealant, or beading, the cap is dome-shaped and made of springy material, so that there's always tension on the outer edge ring. The factory installs them dry, but I use a little green LocTite on before mashing them in.
My VW days are a little more ancient - we didn't even have coolant in ours!
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