M20 Stroker Build: Take 2

[Lugnuts]

Agreed. The fact that other M20s also don't have oil coolers from factory is...reassuring?

Staring at that picture from my previous post, I'm not totally convinced the cooler delete with the adapter spud + direct filter mount @ 90 degrees to the block will help either...hard to tell from the angle.

As luck would have it, there's an M20 block, 885 head and even a 2nd-hand Purolator filter housing sat right in my garage! Crazy to think I could have actually confirmed fitment before booking my car in. I honestly thought the steering linkage would be the sole source of any interference problems.

But yes, if it's not going to work, it's back to finding a different set of headers or possibly going down a remote filter/thermostat route similar to:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LFWsZhPwtVI

[digger]

We aren’t in 1980’s anymore so any decent synthetic will be fine at whatever temp you see on the street plenty of m20 don’t have them. You can still run one using a sandwich plate but more stuffing around. Otherwise you get a set of headers that clears

[Lugnuts]

Yeah, I gather deleting the oil cooler is an option - install 11112140435 and thread the oil filter directly onto the block...wasn't sure on how sensible that was given an Australian summer. I skim read the SpecE30 thread about M20 oil cooler efficacy...

Definitely not about to toss out my almost-finished R134a conversion.

[digger]

I’m running stock oil cooler but likely going to get rid of it as it’s a street only car so can’t see it ever getting too hot. I don’t think you can rotate it unless you don’t have A/C at least not without a decent amount of effort that I decided wasn’t worth it

[Lugnuts]

Picked up my car from the exhaust shop this afternoon. Unfortunately the headers foul on the oil filter. I'm currently using the stock M20 arrangement: oil cooler and housing that points the filter backwards.

I gather the housing can be rotated, so the filter points down or forwards. Even with this change, it looks like the cooler lines will still be a problem (wish I'd found this image beforehand lol):

Digger, are you still running the stock M20 oil cooler?

[digger]

You and me both. I'm looking forward to finally seeing the back of this knock issue.

Head probably won't be installed for a couple weeks. Dyno will follow very shortly after!



I'd certainly like to. Only hurdle is getting a handle on what to install.

Based on your comments from 2014, it sounds like some careful considerations need to be factored in - eg, cross pipe location.

Right now all I have is the stock exhaust manifold, a couple of offset hi-flow cats and a Remus cat-back. I stupidly installed the hi-flow cats with very little forethought (something I've become quite adept at... )

And of course those Hartge H23/H26 headers sitting on the shelf. Assuming they're not a terrible option, I'll be most likely using them as the basis for whatever gets installed.

Need to spend some time documenting a plan for the exhaust...suggestions welcome.

6-2-x-twin pipe or if your muffler is a single 6-2-y-single

twin 2" is fine, single 2.5" is also fine

X or Y around the fuel tank area if you want to boost torque in the 2000-3000 rpm range otherwise just behind gearbox

generic metal cats

a small muffler as resonator works better than hot dogs

muffler with biggest volume that fits

[Lugnuts]

Will be interested to see how much timing will be acceptable and impact on the power curve.

You and me both. I'm looking forward to finally seeing the back of this knock issue.

Head probably won't be installed for a couple weeks. Dyno will follow very shortly after!

Will you be doing the exhaust at the same time?

I'd certainly like to. Only hurdle is getting a handle on what to install.

Based on your comments from 2014, it sounds like some careful considerations need to be factored in - eg, cross pipe location.

Right now all I have is the stock exhaust manifold, a couple of offset hi-flow cats and a Remus cat-back. I stupidly installed the hi-flow cats with very little forethought (something I've become quite adept at... )

And of course those Hartge H23/H26 headers sitting on the shelf. Assuming they're not a terrible option, I'll be most likely using them as the basis for whatever gets installed.

Need to spend some time documenting a plan for the exhaust...suggestions welcome.

[digger]

That seems about as expected. Will be interested to see how much timing will be acceptable and impact on the power curve. Will you be doing the exhaust at the same time?

[Lugnuts]

Cleaned the head today and installed the dbilas 284/284. I wanted to make enough progress to measure the duration numbers, for comparison.



Actually bothering to check this time...



Discovered the end plugs on the Genuine BMW rocker shafts thread in far enough to really recess the plug. When tightened all the way in (like in the picture), the inside face of the plug sits flush with the side of the oil feed hole(s).

I haven't made a decision on which way to install the plugs - tighten them down like in the picture, or back them out so they're flush with the end of the shaft. In both cases I'll likely need to use a thread locker/sealant. Unsure which yet..




I can see how having the plugs all the way in would prevent a static "pool" of oil from sitting in end of the shafts:



On a related note, check your shafts for debris! Couple of the holes had some nice shards of metal hanging off them from manufacturing.

Bought a couple of checking springs to make measurements easier.



The numbers (a helluva lot easier with the head out of the car!):

#1 base circle: 28.222mm
#1 lobe: 35.326mm
#1 valve lift: 11.5mm

Durations:

Valve    0-0                0.1-0.1            1-1              
#1 In.   157-317 (160)      163-307 (144)      174-294 (120)

Happy with that!

[digger]

Dug out the email. I bought them in 2016. Sold on ebay by "ems-europeanmotorsports" in Wiley Park NSW. Advertised as "direct copies from a genuine set of hartge H23/H26 headers". Seemed like a better quality alternative to some of the dodgy "ebay headers" available at the time.

The original ebay ad is NLA. Found a link with the details:

I remember seeing them on eBay. Can’t be worse than factory iron stuff unless they don’t fit

[Lugnuts]

Dug out the email. I bought them in 2016. Sold on ebay by "ems-europeanmotorsports" in Wiley Park NSW. Advertised as "direct copies from a genuine set of hartge H23/H26 headers". Seemed like a better quality alternative to some of the dodgy "ebay headers" available at the time.

The original ebay ad is NLA. Found a link with the details:

Brand New Bmw RHD E30 M20 320i 323i 325i 325is Hartge Alpina Extractors Headers. BMW E30 M20 extractors/headers, these are direct copies from a genuine set of hartge H23/H26 headers. They're made from highest quality steel and are sold with 12 months warranty, ceramic coating also available, ports are matched to standard 731/885 head. Piping from flange to collector is 1.5inch and 2 in from collector. No fabrication to extractors needed, direct factory fit RIGHT HAND DRIVE, beware of poor quality copies. Please call Warren on 0420 206 206 for more info. We also supply headers for most M30 vehicles (E28/E24) We can source most parts, email us today with an enquiry Condition: Brand New, Returns Accepted: ReturnsNotAccepted, Modified Item: No, Custom Bundle: No,

[digger]

if you will realistically implement ITB at some point then a schrick 288 would be worth considering as it will better match the ITB kit.

what headers are those? there are not many options for RHD vehicles

[Lugnuts]

what are the longer term plans, e.g. any plans for itb or other mods ?

I may revisit RHDs ITB kit. Currently sat in a box in the garage. Ran out of time during my first install attempt. A combination of product issues (that Rama was prompt to address) and a noisy TPS when I finally got it all balanced meant I shelved the idea. My E30 isn't a DD, but from memory the car had been off the road for 4 weeks. The noisy TPS was almost certainly a grounding issue with either the TPS or my Megasquirt. I have a P&G TPS somewhere that I was going to try...

On the other side, I've had these sat on a different shelf for a couple years now:



I know you've done a fair bit of testing wrt different exhaust configurations and their respective performance gains/losses. I'm interested to hear your thoughts! :)

[digger]

Dbilas 284 looks ok on paper, 284/272 Schrick is a commonly used cam. I would ask IE/BH for a cam card of 284 and 284/280 new billet cams

what are the longer term plans, e.g. any plans for itb or other mods ?

[Lugnuts]

Alright. Seems the evidence is hinting that my engine would benefit from moar cam.

SkiFree stated he built the Mahle stroker pistons around a 284/280, something I only recently discovered:

https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/engine-drivetrain/m20/373131-pistons-for-m20-stroker?p=6873564#post6873564

Considering the dbilas 284/284, barring any comment against, or recommendation for a better suited alternative.

https://dbilas-shop.com/en/engine-valve-train/performance-camshafts/bmw/2-0-2-7-6-zyl.-12v-m20/new-camshaft/1196/bmw-2-0-2-7-6-cyl.-12v-m20/performance-camshaft?c=12007

Picked up my spare 885 from the shop on Friday. Clean and flat and awaiting a new cam.

Head swap incoming :D