Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

M20B25 No start; fuel rail electrical question

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    M20B25 No start; fuel rail electrical question

    So, my quarantine project has been swapping out my tired 195k motor for a refreshed longblock (all the accesories from my old motor with a fresh block, so all accessories were working prior to this swap) in my Spec E30 build. I am in the home stretch and was hoping to have it fired up and do my ring-seating break in drive, but alas I am unable to get it to fire. I believe I have narrowed down my current issue (cause I am sure I will have another once I solve this), but I am hoping to see if others have dug into this before I proceed....I will bold some of my highlight thoughts...

    Here is where I am:
    The new motor cranks and really wants to catch, but doesn't.
    I have spark at all 6 plugs.
    I have verified my fuel send and return lines are correct.
    Only fuel injectors 2, 4, and 6 are firing. Injectors 1, 3, and 5 are not firing. Verified this during attempted starting as well as pinning out the harness (36 and 2 jumper, pin 17 to ground for 2, 4, and 6 and pin 16 for 1, 3, and 5 per the Bentley). Fuel injector rail is the later style.
    Looking further into 1, 3, and 5 not firing I have dug into my C191 connector (which looks surprisingly clean, none of the typical corrosion or heavy oxidation)....
    I have verified that I have continuity at the female/body side of the connector between Pin 16 of the harness and pin 6 on the C191
    I exposed a millimeter of wire on the male/fuel harness side PAST the C191 and verified I still have continuity between Pin 16 and the harness....This is the one that surprised me, indicates the connection is solid inside the C191. But still no firing of Bank 1, 3, 5 injectors when pinning out the harness

    The fact that none of those three injectors are firing leads me to think that there is a break somewhere between the male side of the C191 and the injectors. Has anybody fully dissected one of these harnesses to understand if there is another junction in there? I really want to do the least amount of hacking as possible when I pull this out in a bit...

    Some of my other assumptions in this:
    The hot lead is shared between all 6 injectors so if the other bank is firing that must be fine.
    The injectors are all wired in parallel, so one being unseated or having poor contact would only disable that single injector

    Open to any other thoughts or help!

    #2
    Ended up getting into this sooner than I thought. Very interesting...if you pop off the electrical piece to the fuel rail and dig into it the hot is in a bundle, and then each bank has its own little wire bundle. The joins in mine were copper crimp connectors that were dipped

    Once I had the rail out I did test and found no continuity between the pin of the harness (pin 6) and the ground pins at the injector connections for 1,3, and 5.

    The culprit? Enough oxidation had occurred in the wire bundle under that crimp connector to make the copper strands to no longer be electrically connected!
    My overall harness is damn near pristine, so this is t the case of a bunch of moisture getting in. Looks to just be natural oxidation from 30 years.

    so, if you have issues with your injectors it may not just be the bitch plug! Oxidation alone can be a bitch!

    Comment


      #3
      Back with a different question now that I have all of my injectors triggering...
      When I trigger one bank, the injectors (or maybe single injector, not easy to tell) are significantly louder. Like I can hear it inside the car. When I trigger the other bank, it is very quiet and requires traditional “feel” or stethoscope (ie, screwdriver) method to identify they are firing.

      I am assuming this is indicative of an issue with one of the injectors and I will need to swap them out (shame too cause they’re newly refurbished), but wanted to consult with folks who know better before I do unnecessary work based on assumption...

      As I also managed to damage the threads in one of the valve cover stud holes, it’s not looking like I will be trying to fire it up tomorrow anyways

      Comment

      Working...
      X