Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Driveshaft repair

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Driveshaft repair

    So last year I put my 89 325i coupe away and never got the opportunity to work on it when the weather was poor. Now with all the time I've begun repairs on my driveshaft and other components in the vehicle. I Had a shake around 55 mph/ 85 kmh and would mostly have a very bad shake driving through third and slightly into 4th as it faded slightly then. taking off the exhaust and the shields I realized 2 things that I could use some help on. first thing is there is a circular support piece of metal is what it looks like connected to the Guibo on the transmission side of the driveshaft wondering how to take it off, will source a picture. second thing im wondering is if the driveshaft can be taken out without having to split it in two by loosening the piece by the centre support bearing. Help and responses are always very much appreciated.

    #2
    The black circular object is a vibration damper, discontinued at some point. BMW had it there for a reason, but most people eliminate it.

    If you drop the rear exhaust, it is possible to remove the driveshaft in one piece but far easier if you remove the entire exhaust. Better not to pull the two pieces apart.
    2004 525i Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual

    Comment


      #3
      to take it off do I just crack the nuts on the backside of it or are those little black circles pieces of plastic that are covering the bolts?

      Comment


        #4
        You should be able to reach the three nuts on the transmission side of the vibration damper. The it should pull back from there.
        2004 525i Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual

        Comment


          #5
          Update: got under the car today and took off the three bolts that hold the driveshaft to the transmission, then the 4 by the diff and the 2 holding the centre shaft bearing aswell, it can almost come out but my problem is that the previous owner welded in and aftermarket manifold to the rest of the exhaust so the only portion of exhaust I can get out is the rear muffle portion. is it even possible to take it out this way. Im thinking tomorrow of trying to remove the nuts on the vibration damper to see if maybe I can fiddle the guibo out and give me more room to pull the driveshaft. I am trying to do everything in my power to not have to take out the manifold. I also tried dropping the transmission in the slightest bit while it was supported by my jack. and that did not really help. thanks for all your responses.

          edit: should I also replace all the nuts that were taken off? like the 4 by the diff and the ones on the guibo.
          Last edited by EbzyyE30; 05-27-2020, 08:22 PM.

          Comment


            #6
            A few thoughts, as I recall, the nuts on the flex disk are one time use. So replace them. I believe the nuts on the universal joint can be reused. Also, if you can support the transmission, remove the transmission cross member and lower the transmission a bit which may give you a bit more room to get the driveshaft out.
            2004 525i Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual

            Comment


              #7
              will try again today letting the transmission hang a bit more, just don't want to risk breaking anything exhaust wise, do you think it will make a difference if I reattach the guibo to the transmission and disconnect it from the vibration damper? maybe It will give me more space to pull it off the output shaft. not sure but id like to get it out was wrestling with it for a couple hours yesterday trying to figure out a way to get it out.

              Comment


                #8
                Update: got it out after many tries of just forcing the exhaust down with m hands while yanking on the drive shaft it came out. 1 concern I have is there was a small circular rubber piece that seemed to come out of the driveshaft on the end nearest to the transmission. not sure if this is a crucial part to the driveshaft. my centre support is completely mangled from me taking it out so that needs replace. lastly I've linked a video of the U joint and its movement, wondering if it will need rebuild as I've never really felt what a bad U joint is like. If it does ill just have the driveshaft shop replace everything for me. the clicking in the video is the U joint hitting the drive shaft itself it feels very smooth but im not sure if in the middle its supposed to have the very slightest stop in the middle when moving back and forth. Thanks
                 

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by EbzyyE30 View Post
                  wondering if it will need rebuild as I've never really felt what a bad U joint is like. If it does ill just have the driveshaft shop replace everything for me. the clicking in the video is the U joint hitting the drive shaft itself it feels very smooth but im not sure if in the middle its supposed to have the very slightest stop in the middle when moving back and forth. Thanks
                  No, it's not. That's how you can tell it's toast. That bit of "notch" will cause vibration at high speed.
                  If it's got tits or tires, it's gonna cost ya!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Stanley Rockafella View Post
                    No, it's not. That's how you can tell it's toast. That bit of "notch" will cause vibration at high speed.
                    crazy, its so subtle but well noted I will send it for rebuild and just have them put everything on and freshen it up. cheers

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by EbzyyE30 View Post

                      crazy, its so subtle but well noted I will send it for rebuild and just have them put everything on and freshen it up. cheers
                      But make certain that the shop balances it on a high-speed balancing machine. Without it, you'll be back to square one.
                      Usually if they are familiar with "staked in" joints, they'll be able to do it properly. They'll also probably use clips to secure it (much easier to replace in the future).
                      Also, request that they use the same "sealed" joints, as there's no real way of re-greasing these once it's installed (without dropping the exh. system).

                      Hope that helps
                      If it's got tits or tires, it's gonna cost ya!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Im pretty sure they are specifically a driveline shop but ill make sure to ask about balancing for sure I know its important. it gets sent out on Monday at a price of around $350 cad. he said it will probably even be cheaper. well find out. appreciate the guidance ill get back here if I have some trouble re installing which I know will not be fun.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by EbzyyE30 View Post
                          Im pretty sure they are specifically a driveline shop but ill make sure to ask about balancing for sure I know its important. it gets sent out on Monday at a price of around $350 cad. he said it will probably even be cheaper. well find out. appreciate the guidance ill get back here if I have some trouble re installing which I know will not be fun.
                          $350cad?! where in Canada are you?
                          Back when I had mine replaced (early 00's), the only place I could find nearby was in metro Vancouver BC...and it certainly wasn't $350.
                          At the time I lived in Regina, Sask. There was many agricultural "driveline" repair/rebuild shops that claimed it would be easy. Once they had a look at it, all were unable to help with my staked in joints.

                          I finally lucked out in 2004 with a BMW tech who had a previously rebuilt one sitting in his garage from another late model e30
                          Still running it to this day.
                          Last edited by Stanley Rockafella; 05-29-2020, 03:42 PM.
                          If it's got tits or tires, it's gonna cost ya!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Stanley Rockafella View Post

                            $350cad?! where in Canada are you?
                            Back when I had mine replaced (early 00's), the only place I could find nearby was in metro Vancouver BC...and it certainly wasn't $350.
                            At the time I lived in Regina, Sask. There was many agricultural "driveline" repair/rebuild shops that claimed it would be easy. Once they had a look at it, all were unable to help with my staked in joints.

                            I finally lucked out in 2004 with a BMW tech who had a previously rebuilt one sitting in his garage from another late model e30
                            Still running it to this day.
                            Ontario, there is a spot in Toronto called Cardanic Driveline, talked to a very nice guy named Mike they have very good reviews and I haven't had any work done by them but I will let you know what happens when I get it back, turn around time is very fast from what im hearing. Also if anyone has the answer to the importance of the centering sleeve on the driveshaft. I would assume important but you never know came out when I got the driveshaft out it was ripped in two. should I have this replaced?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              just got a call from the shop. Told me a couple days ago actually that in his professional opinion having worked on many of these driveshafts that the rear U-Joint was actually in good condition and that little notch I was feeling was due to how tightly some BMW Ujoints are pressed in. Told him I was not foreign to paying more to have to never touch it again. He offered me Center bearing and centering sleeve for 200$, he then said he will balance it and if it didn't pass how he liked he would change the U joint. Called me today and said it all checked out and it is straighter than an arrow. All totalling $280 cad with a balance. hoping this solves all my vibration issues on the e30.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X