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    what the spark

    Okay Ive tried almost everything to get my car to spark and it still doesnt want to, here is a run down of info that might help

    -replaced 059 ecu
    -checked referance/speed sensors to correct positions
    -coil is fine I think, was almost brand new before the eta was pulled out
    ( what do I need to verify and how?)

    I used the M30 harness that came with the engine (e23 L7) and adapted it to the body harness, there are 2 wires left in the old harness that Im not sure about, I think something to do with diagnostic, and automatic transmission which is what the engine was mated to.

    Also in the glove compartment the c103 clipped right together between body and engine, but there is another 12 or 13 pin connector that I have no clue what to do with. Im thinking the L7 had a lot of accessories and it had something to do with that.

    #2
    Might be a stupid question but, is the chassis grounded to the block?

    Comment


      #3
      run a wire from the large red wire sticking out of the relay closest to the fuse box (of the 3 mounted in front of it) to the posotive side of the coil

      should fire right up

      Need Illustration or Design work? www.robbiebyerly.com

      Comment


        #4
        okay great Ill try that when Im home, the relays are scattered and not setup neatly, which relay would that be, main?

        also the block is grounded but only buy the strap, not the big thick cable, would that cause a no start? someone told me that isnt the issue

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          #5
          they ground can def be the reason! that strap has to be grounded.

          and the main relay has 5 pins the other 2 have 4 the big red wires are hard to miss as well

          Need Illustration or Design work? www.robbiebyerly.com

          Comment


            #6
            What strap btw?

            Comment


              #7
              the thick strap from the drivers side of the block to the frame rail

              Need Illustration or Design work? www.robbiebyerly.com

              Comment


                #8
                Do you have injection pulse? Does the main relay activate (do you hear the ICV move when you turn the key to run?)
                -P

                Moosehead Engineering

                Comment


                  #9
                  okay sorry for the delay

                  I got the car started, I have no idea how it happened really.... maybe it was a tap on the ecu or something, but still a problem

                  no idle, it just dies after reaching 1000 or 2000 rpms if I dont touch the gas
                  I can get it to rev if I really step on the gas but if I stop it immediately dies

                  I dont think I have any vacuum leaks, I have 40psi fuel pressure, icv buzzes and if I crack the throttle 1/5 of the way when started it doesnt even reach 1000 rpms before quitting.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Check AFM plug on the stalling issue.
                    -P

                    Moosehead Engineering

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I pulled the afm off and unplugged it and it didnt act any differently

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Hmm. Normally a start and stall is AFM or huge vacuum leak. Did you plug the cannister purge? This thing can leak sometimes. How about TPS. You mentioned it is an L7 donor, I think that has a different TPS than the manual M30s so make sure it is adjusted properly. Also, it is possible that it is starting on the cold start injector fuel, but that the injectors are stuck shut. How long had the motor been sitting? I have often had to take a ratchet extension and a hammer and tap on injectors to get them to work after sitting. You may need to keep the motor running while you do this- I use an assistant spritzing bursts of carb cleaner into the intake while I tap on the injectors.
                        -P

                        Moosehead Engineering

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Another stupid suggestion, but check if you have
                          the plug wires in the correct order on the dizzy.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by mooseheadm5 View Post
                            Hmm. Normally a start and stall is AFM or huge vacuum leak. Did you plug the cannister purge? This thing can leak sometimes. How about TPS. You mentioned it is an L7 donor, I think that has a different TPS than the manual M30s so make sure it is adjusted properly. Also, it is possible that it is starting on the cold start injector fuel, but that the injectors are stuck shut. How long had the motor been sitting? I have often had to take a ratchet extension and a hammer and tap on injectors to get them to work after sitting. You may need to keep the motor running while you do this- I use an assistant spritzing bursts of carb cleaner into the intake while I tap on the injectors.
                            the tps, is that on the other side of the throttle? how do I check that/adjust? the engine was sitting for almost 2 years atleast, thats what I thought that it might be running of cold injection, Ill try knocking on those effers.

                            also, the hose from the brake booster is not plugged into anything...where does that go?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              The L7 did not have vacuum boost. You will need to drill and tap the manifold for a vacuum fitting. Guess you should have asked that before, eh? As for TPS, Take a picture of which one you have so I can see what you need to do to adjust it.
                              -P

                              Moosehead Engineering

                              Comment

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