Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Its alive! m30 swap!

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Its alive! m30 swap!

    Whats up? Havent been on here for a while... but im doing a m30 swap in my 84' 318i. Engine is from a 92' 735i m30b35, e32 auto harness and ecu "250", refubished mustang 19lb injectors, m10 4cyl tranny, m10 flywheel with spec stage 3 clutch. e28 535i radiator, e30.de mounts pos III. I just need a little more cash to get the swap done. I need a center support bearing, guilibo and license.... its been suspended for a while now... 5 months, 1one more to go. All new gaskets and seals throughout the engine and tranny. Finally started it up!!! Cranked for about 4-5 seconds and VROOOMMMM!!! Runs like a charm! sounds like a v-8! Maybe thats because it has only about 2ft of downpipe! Tap on the gas and its so responsive comepared to my ol' crappy m10! Revs quick and you can just hear and feel the difference! I cant wait to drive it and hook up the nitrous system I had on my m10... which is a 50shot but im going to up it to a 75 :) Will get pics up tomarrow when im sobor!!! im kinda tipsy right now.. just wanted to share. All comments and questions are welcome whether good or bad. Post AWAY!!!!!:hitler:
    Last edited by flawdaboi407; 12-16-2009, 03:04 AM.
    84' 318i m30b35 swapped!

    #2
    nice now lets seem some pics and vids
    e30s r kool

    Comment


      #3
      nicce work man! I remember the day my engine first fired. I was stoked. Fab up an exhaust and have fun with it.

      Comment


        #4
        Pffffft! You drunken clown!

        Hurry up and get yours done already - I remember you started yours at about the same time i was starting mine and Ive now done two m30 swaps in the time it's taken you to do one :p:p

        Oh and BTW, auto wiring harness and auto ecu's FTW, I'm running mine with no probs whatsoever - proves it can be done and it's not as scarey as it's made out to be.
        Last edited by Doughnut; 07-04-2009, 12:17 AM. Reason: Spelling.
        ///Monstrosity. (OO≡≡[][]≡≡OO)

        Aside from showing yourself to be offensive, lacking experience and ignorant in the ways of business, you're also illiterate and imprudent. Beyond that, your sense of liability is severely impaired.

        Comment


          #5
          Hey, nice job! What did you do for the wiring? Details!!!
          Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



          OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

          Comment


            #6
            now i need to get my tach to work. on the e32 harness there is a small black wire pin# 9 where do I connect this to on the 318i car?
            84' 318i m30b35 swapped!

            Comment


              #7
              318i harness:

              #1 - BL : Alternator
              #4 - BR/VI : Coolant temp sensor
              #6 - GN/GE :
              #7 - R/VI : Fuel pump
              #8 - SW/GE with another small SW/GE : Starter
              #10 - GN : Coil
              #16 - SW/BR : Oil pressure switch
              #17 - WS/BL : Diagnositic port.

              e34/e32 harness:

              Pin 1, BU goes to the alternator. Comes from the Instrument Cluster "charge indicator" light. BU in the fuse box.
              Pin 2, GN/YL comes from oil lever sensor. It is BU/BK in the fuse box and runs to the static oil level active check control unit, which is the same as the oil level light.
              Pin 4, BR/VI comes from the coolant temp sender unit. It is BR/VI in the fuse box and goes to the Instrument cluster temp gauge.
              Pin 5, BR/GN Oil pressure switch. Runs to instrument cluster oil pressure light.
              Pin 6, GN/WH goes to the O2 sensor heater relay. Gets power from fuse 9 and in the fuse box is colored GN/YL.
              Pin 7, GN comes from the ignition switch and goes to the Start Input, in the motronic unit and it also goes to Pin 15 on the coil. In the fuse box it is colored GN.
              Pin 8, WH/BK comes from the motronic unit "present fuel rate output". Is YL/WH in fuse box and runs to Fuel Economy Gauge in the bottom of the tach.
              Pin 9, BK goes to the ECU Engine speed output. This is BK in the fuse box. On the E28 this actually should be the connected in C103.
              Pin 10, BU comes from the oil level sensor. It is VI/GN in the fuse box and goes to the active check control unit as the dynamic oil level light.
              Pin 11, WH/GN comes from Pin 7 of the diagnostic connector. Is WH/BU in the fuse box and goes to the Service Indicator Processor.
              Pin 12, GY comes from the ECU and is the trigger for the "Check Engine" light control. In the fuse box it is BR/BK. This wire is not used on the E28, since there is no check engine light.
              Pin 13, GN/VI comes from Pin 87 of fuel pump relay. Is VI/RD in fuse box and runs to Fuse 11.
              Pin 14, BK/WH comes from motronic unit "Speed Signal Input". Is BU/YL in fuse box and goes to the Speed Input of the Instrument Cluster.
              Pin 15, BK/GN comes from Pin 30h on the coil. In the fuse box it is BK/GN and runs to the unloader relays.
              Pin 16, WH/BK comes from Pin 6 of diagnostic connector and is used in the SRS system. In the fuse box it is WH/BK and is said to be not used.
              Pin 18, BK/YL is the starter trigger and comes from in the car. It is also BK/YL in the fuse box. It also runs to Pin 11 of the diagnostic connector.
              Pin 20, RD/YL comes from Pin 87 of the main relay. It is RD/YL and goes to power the ABS Hydraulic Unit.
              _______________________________________________

              m30/e30318i
              1/1
              4/4
              13/7
              18/8 tie small bl/yl wire into the same connection.
              7/10
              5/16
              11/17 Is the diagnostic port.
              9-> Black wire in glove box above ECU.
              84' 318i m30b35 swapped!

              Comment


                #8
                Did you get the tach working? All other gauges work?
                Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                Comment


                  #9
                  fuel guage works. im missing a lower radiator hose so I havent had a chance to test the temp guage but it does seem to work because it moves when I crank it up. im using the m10 sensors.
                  84' 318i m30b35 swapped!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Did it work before with the m10 in the car? Are you using M10 sensor for the cluster or both, cluster and ecu?
                    Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                    OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                    Comment


                      #11
                      heres a pic... still need to shorten the shift linkage and get a lower radiator hose. What temp sensors do I need and how do i get the tach going?


                      84' 318i m30b35 swapped!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I used the m20 sensors. Might be the same as the m30's?
                        If you wired it up like an m20 the tach should work.
                        Make sure the vr sensor isn't plugged into the spark wire one.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by LowR3V'in View Post
                          I used the m20 sensors. Might be the same as the m30's?
                          If you wired it up like an m20 the tach should work.
                          Make sure the vr sensor isn't plugged into the spark wire one.
                          AFAIK the temp sensor to the gauge has to match the gauge, i.e. an m20 sensor for an m20 gauge, etc. I tried using a m30 temp sensor for the gauge and it didn't register anything. The m20 sensor seems to work fine.

                          However, I am using an m30 temp sensor for the ecu and it seems to work okay.

                          The tach I don't know about, just make sure you have it hooked up correctly like R3v'in said. Mine worked fine right off
                          Originally posted by LJ851
                          I programmed my oven to turn off when my pizza was done, should i start a build thread?

                          Feedback

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Very nice. I'm planning to go this route with my M10 car due to the fact of a S14 being too expensive.
                            1985 M10b18. 70maybewhpoffury. Over engineered S50b30 murica BBQ swap in progress.

                            Originally posted by DEV0 E30
                            You'd chugg this butt. I know you would. Ain't gotta' lie to kick it brostantinople.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              anyone know where I need to connect the black #9 wire for the tach? My car is a 84' 318i
                              84' 318i m30b35 swapped!

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X