Its alive! m30 swap!

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  • flawdaboi407
    replied
    i found a connecter with three wires near the glove box... green, black, and yellow with a white stripe

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  • flawdaboi407
    replied
    where under the dash? near the glove box or behind the cluster?

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  • Doughnut
    replied
    Black goes to Green wire in the c104 under the dash. Just run a wire from the c101.

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  • flawdaboi407
    replied
    anyone know where I need to connect the black #9 wire for the tach? My car is a 84' 318i

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  • Holland
    replied
    Very nice. I'm planning to go this route with my M10 car due to the fact of a S14 being too expensive.

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  • chadthestampede
    replied
    Originally posted by LowR3V'in
    I used the m20 sensors. Might be the same as the m30's?
    If you wired it up like an m20 the tach should work.
    Make sure the vr sensor isn't plugged into the spark wire one.
    AFAIK the temp sensor to the gauge has to match the gauge, i.e. an m20 sensor for an m20 gauge, etc. I tried using a m30 temp sensor for the gauge and it didn't register anything. The m20 sensor seems to work fine.

    However, I am using an m30 temp sensor for the ecu and it seems to work okay.

    The tach I don't know about, just make sure you have it hooked up correctly like R3v'in said. Mine worked fine right off

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  • LowR3V'in
    replied
    I used the m20 sensors. Might be the same as the m30's?
    If you wired it up like an m20 the tach should work.
    Make sure the vr sensor isn't plugged into the spark wire one.

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  • flawdaboi407
    replied
    heres a pic... still need to shorten the shift linkage and get a lower radiator hose. What temp sensors do I need and how do i get the tach going?


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  • Jean
    replied
    Did it work before with the m10 in the car? Are you using M10 sensor for the cluster or both, cluster and ecu?

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  • flawdaboi407
    replied
    fuel guage works. im missing a lower radiator hose so I havent had a chance to test the temp guage but it does seem to work because it moves when I crank it up. im using the m10 sensors.

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  • Jean
    replied
    Did you get the tach working? All other gauges work?

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  • flawdaboi407
    replied
    318i harness:

    #1 - BL : Alternator
    #4 - BR/VI : Coolant temp sensor
    #6 - GN/GE :
    #7 - R/VI : Fuel pump
    #8 - SW/GE with another small SW/GE : Starter
    #10 - GN : Coil
    #16 - SW/BR : Oil pressure switch
    #17 - WS/BL : Diagnositic port.

    e34/e32 harness:

    Pin 1, BU goes to the alternator. Comes from the Instrument Cluster "charge indicator" light. BU in the fuse box.
    Pin 2, GN/YL comes from oil lever sensor. It is BU/BK in the fuse box and runs to the static oil level active check control unit, which is the same as the oil level light.
    Pin 4, BR/VI comes from the coolant temp sender unit. It is BR/VI in the fuse box and goes to the Instrument cluster temp gauge.
    Pin 5, BR/GN Oil pressure switch. Runs to instrument cluster oil pressure light.
    Pin 6, GN/WH goes to the O2 sensor heater relay. Gets power from fuse 9 and in the fuse box is colored GN/YL.
    Pin 7, GN comes from the ignition switch and goes to the Start Input, in the motronic unit and it also goes to Pin 15 on the coil. In the fuse box it is colored GN.
    Pin 8, WH/BK comes from the motronic unit "present fuel rate output". Is YL/WH in fuse box and runs to Fuel Economy Gauge in the bottom of the tach.
    Pin 9, BK goes to the ECU Engine speed output. This is BK in the fuse box. On the E28 this actually should be the connected in C103.
    Pin 10, BU comes from the oil level sensor. It is VI/GN in the fuse box and goes to the active check control unit as the dynamic oil level light.
    Pin 11, WH/GN comes from Pin 7 of the diagnostic connector. Is WH/BU in the fuse box and goes to the Service Indicator Processor.
    Pin 12, GY comes from the ECU and is the trigger for the "Check Engine" light control. In the fuse box it is BR/BK. This wire is not used on the E28, since there is no check engine light.
    Pin 13, GN/VI comes from Pin 87 of fuel pump relay. Is VI/RD in fuse box and runs to Fuse 11.
    Pin 14, BK/WH comes from motronic unit "Speed Signal Input". Is BU/YL in fuse box and goes to the Speed Input of the Instrument Cluster.
    Pin 15, BK/GN comes from Pin 30h on the coil. In the fuse box it is BK/GN and runs to the unloader relays.
    Pin 16, WH/BK comes from Pin 6 of diagnostic connector and is used in the SRS system. In the fuse box it is WH/BK and is said to be not used.
    Pin 18, BK/YL is the starter trigger and comes from in the car. It is also BK/YL in the fuse box. It also runs to Pin 11 of the diagnostic connector.
    Pin 20, RD/YL comes from Pin 87 of the main relay. It is RD/YL and goes to power the ABS Hydraulic Unit.
    _______________________________________________

    m30/e30318i
    1/1
    4/4
    13/7
    18/8 tie small bl/yl wire into the same connection.
    7/10
    5/16
    11/17 Is the diagnostic port.
    9-> Black wire in glove box above ECU.

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  • flawdaboi407
    replied
    now i need to get my tach to work. on the e32 harness there is a small black wire pin# 9 where do I connect this to on the 318i car?

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  • Jean
    replied
    Hey, nice job! What did you do for the wiring? Details!!!

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  • Doughnut
    replied
    Pffffft! You drunken clown!

    Hurry up and get yours done already - I remember you started yours at about the same time i was starting mine and Ive now done two m30 swaps in the time it's taken you to do one :p:p

    Oh and BTW, auto wiring harness and auto ecu's FTW, I'm running mine with no probs whatsoever - proves it can be done and it's not as scarey as it's made out to be.
    Last edited by Doughnut; 07-03-2009, 11:17 PM. Reason: Spelling.

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