Almost done, having spark/fuel issues!

[RickSloan]

that wire really does nothing except many help with fuel economy a little bit

[Zacm829]

So the E32 ecu needs no spark plug ID wire to function?

[chadthestampede]

Tinkered with the car a bit today. So the engine is firing and emitting a blue flame out of the exhaust but its not actually starting. We do have a mix of spark plug wires on the engine, including the spark plug trigger(ID) wire. Here is the interesting part, If we totally disconnect the spark plug ID wire it has no effect. So I'm thinking that its a bad/incorrect ID wire which is just confusing or not communicating with the ecu. Sound right? Anyone have a set of M30 wires for sale?

Might be. I switched my e30 spark plug wires out for some older e23 ones that didn't have the ID thing and it worked a lot better.

[Zacm829]

Tinkered with the car a bit today. So the engine is firing and emitting a blue flame out of the exhaust but its not actually starting. We do have a mix of spark plug wires on the engine, including the spark plug trigger(ID) wire. Here is the interesting part, If we totally disconnect the spark plug ID wire it has no effect. So I'm thinking that its a bad/incorrect ID wire which is just confusing or not communicating with the ecu. Sound right? Anyone have a set of M30 wires for sale?

[chadthestampede]

^ What he said. I had the exact same problem with the temp sensor until I realized that you need the e30 one for the gauge and the m30 one for the ecu.

It's a good idea to replace you main and fuel pump relay even if you think they're good. It usually takes replacing to realize that there is something wrong with them.

[RickSloan]

ok i just found out that the m20 single pol temp sender is the one that works with the e30 gauge in the m30 motor. The m30 plug will not work with the b35 stuff. This should change how it runs but is good to know. I literally just fixed my temp guage 10 minutes ago with this.

Check your relays again, switch them and so on. Is your firing order right? are your injectors working? are you fuel lines going the right direction? I know these things seem silly ut we all miss the little stuff

[Zacm829]

that will just make is run like shit is all but wont stop it from starting. They are colored to the plug anyway its hard to mess them up.

It did seem odd that I would have switched those. What if the plugs are from the original B34 (1.1), but the engine is now converted to 1.3? I'm pretty sure I swapped the plugs but you never know. Any other ideas on what it could be?

[RickSloan]

that will just make is run like shit is all but wont stop it from starting. They are colored to the plug anyway its hard to mess them up.

[Zacm829]

One of the guys on Mye28.com suggested that the temp sensors on the thermostat housing could be hooked up in reverse. My question is the engine should run fine with no coolant/radiator hooked up correct?

[Zacm829]

Switched the Spark plug ID wire and the CPS. Now I have fuel and spark, but it does not run. The engine kind of burbles out of the exhaust. We have constant spark and fuel pressure. It is almost as if the exhaust valves are open during combustion, causing no compression. Any ideas? Could the head be out of time 180 degrees? Could there be a problem with firing order? Really would like to hear the beast run. Thanks in Advance guys!

[Rocla]

The starter has four prongs. I hooked up the black/green to the top spade last night and still no power to the windows(etc.). However when I pulled the unloader relay and jumped to of the pins I had power windows. ? So can the unloader relay just go bad during a swap, or is the black/green still no hooked up correctly? Thanks for all the help! ;)

Ground the wire to swhen ignition is switched, does the relay click?

[Zacm829]

If the donor car had no unloader relay the starter has no correct terminal for unloader function.

Just ground the black/green (!!!NOT black/yellow!!!) going to starter solenoid and windows/blower/radio/fogs will work, since uloader relay is pulled allways when igntion is switched.

Or buy newer m30 starter.

The starter has four prongs. I hooked up the black/green to the top spade last night and still no power to the windows(etc.). However when I pulled the unloader relay and jumped to of the pins I had power windows. ? So can the unloader relay just go bad during a swap, or is the black/green still no hooked up correctly? Thanks for all the help! ;)

[Jean]

my car was running with a b34 harnesss and now i just swapped in a b35 harness and up graded to motronic 1.3

i had the crank position sensor plugged into the wrong spot out of the two... fired up right away... check yours.

now its running but i have no tach, no temp gauge and it sounds like its idleing high...

Glad that was it.... I'll get back to you tomorrow on the tach wire pin, if you can find it in my other thread :)

Temp gauge will work, make sure you are using E30 temp sensor on the engine first.

If it's idling high, first check the tps to make sure it's adjusted to where it clicks right when you start giving it some throttle.

[Rocla]

If the donor car had no unloader relay the starter has no correct terminal for unloader function.

Just ground the black/green (!!!NOT black/yellow!!!) going to starter solenoid and windows/blower/radio/fogs will work, since uloader relay is pulled allways when igntion is switched.

Or buy newer m30 starter.

[chadthestampede]

Yeah i just read that, but would that need to be done if no wires were spliced? Pretty much we just plugged in all the connectors from the original harness. Just extended the injector wires. So technically nothing changed on the chassis wiring. Still confused on the no spark or fuel. M20 ran great.

I dunno dude, mine was spliced but into the same wires it would have been (it's a long story) and I still had to run a wire to the solenoid.