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    #31
    Originally posted by evil_twin View Post
    Try a fan shroud, not too sure about m30 motors, but I know with my m52 it overheats quick when I start laying on the throttle even when the fan is always on (i have a 16" pusher fan w/out fan shroud and I think 88* thermostat).

    I'm not too sure if it's a air bubble thing, but when you go to rebleed the system, raise the front of the car, so all the air goes to the highest point (ie radiator) and will bleed, or you can use a vacuum bleeder. I know when i worked at Nissan I bought one of those and never had any coolant issues when refilling the system.

    And if thats still not the case, run a different mix. You're in FL, it doesn't get TOO cold down there so you can easily run a 75/25 mix with some water wetter from Redline.

    Oh BTW, I'm going down to Ft. Lauderdale in May for work :)
    Yeah, the more I bleed the system the harder I find it to believe that it is still an air bubble. We have already bled the car in many different ways. Yesterday I just did the usual "pop out the expansion tank and hold it about a foot higher than the motor" method.

    Then after that we put it back and we tried with the bleeder screw.

    And these aren't the only two methods I've tried. I've done it on the ramp (as you suggested), etc etc.

    I'm leaning more towards Otis' theories (just frustrated and somewhat reluctant to admit it), but we'll see what's up. I have some ABS plastic laying around, so I will see if I try to make a shroud one of these days.

    As for your visit to Ft.Lauderdale, definitely hit me up.

    - Erick
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    Originally posted by Mr. Anderson
    ...one of the most hardcore E30's around. :D

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      #32
      There is a sure way to bleed the cooling system on 'big' six engines.
      1. After repair is made (before adding coolant) remove bleeder screw and run
      a small piece of wire down the hole to dislodge any mineral deposits..
      2. Replace the screw, but leave valve 'open'.
      3. Open heater control valve and add coolant until it begins to escape from
      the bleeder hole.
      4. Now close bleeder screw and replace the expansion tank cap and tighten.
      5. Remove the small coolant line that runs from the radiator to the
      expansion tank AT THE EXPANSION tank and hold it as high as you can.
      6. Now attach another hose the expansion tank in place of the one you've
      just removed. BLOW (gently!!) through this hose until coolant emerges from
      the small elevated radiator hose.
      7. Now remove the 'blow' hose and reconnect the small radiator hose to the
      expansion tank..
      8. Now top off the expansion tank to the full mark.
      9. Start and warm up engine and check for leaks!!
      That's it. Good luck.
      BTW, this procedure is compliments of Jim Rowe at Metric Mechanic

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