here's a new one

[yert315]

Today I replaced a leaking cam seal, which left my ignition cap covered in oil on the inside. Hopefully the new one works this time. I put it back together and went out for a drive. Beat on it pretty good making sure everything was running smoothly. On the way back home the "park brake", "brake lining", "brake fluid", "anti-lock", and battery lights came on.
The last time these lights were on it was the unloader relay deal, which I have since fixed as discussed in this thread: http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthre...unloader+relay

Now I know all these sensors couldn't have gone bad on me at the same time. Only thing I noticed was the alternator belt a bit loose. Tightening it yielded no positive results.

Thoughts?

[weaksauce]

motor ground strap still ok?

[yert315]

yup, brand new.

Everything works electrically on the car. Just those lights came on all at once.

[weaksauce]

it has to be a gremlin. i'd check for lose connections. it's odd that all 3 lit up at once. I'd also check the ABS relay and computer. It seems like there is a lot of brake stuff on that list.

[E30SPDFRK]

Is the alternator charging? Check it with a multimeter to confirm.

[yert315]

'twas the alternator. Thanks for the tip e30spdfrk (I love your wheels)

[E30SPDFRK]

Glad I could help :)

Wish the wheels were mine, lol.

[kylelauffer]

in my auto 91 e30 when it had m20 in it i would sometimes go around a banked turn and make the back end slide out in the dry. and a light came on the anti lock light for diff i think. but it eventually went out. mabey give it some time?? reset your codes with the scan tool

[yert315]

sike, alternator fixed it for about 20 miles. Drove it down to a friend's house, chilled for 20 minutes, then turned the car on to see my dash lights lit up again. It drove fine the entire way back home (another 20 miles).

I'll try swapping out the jumper wire on the unloader relay for a thicker one. Any other ideas?

Here are the lights i'm talking about:

[weaksauce]

check the plugs on the back of the cluster? might have a loose connection?

[E30SPDFRK]

Try reving the engine up a lot next time the lights are on and see if they go off. All the lights on at once almost always means low battery voltage. If they go off when you rev it, you're having the same problem I am and I can't help you any more lol.

[yert315]

can the alternator belt stretch? I towed it 4 days in 35 degree weather. Started right up with no lights. After about 2 miles the lights came back on. I am guessing the belt warmed up and stretch out. I noticed the adjuster on the alt bracket was almost all the way out to tighten the belt when I replaced the alternator.

I bought a new belt from vatozone. I'll replace it when this damn snow clears up. I'll keep this thread updated

[yert315]

Alrighty then.

Replaced the belt with no results. So I changed out the jumper wire for a thicker one. I didn't realize how thin the old one was. I ended up using 16 or 14 gauge wire that I found laying around in the garage. So far so good, although I have only let it idle and rev in the driveway. I really hope this solves this problem for good.

[yert315]

drove the car all day today. No lights!

**make sure the jumper wire is the proper gauge and the splice is solid**