m30b32, is it worth it?

[gtarwiz]

I have seen this m30b33 from an 84 633csi on craigslist every once in awhile and I was wondering if its even worth it because it seems to be missing quite a number of things. I realize that it has the old wiring and that I would probably have to upgrade or use a b35 1.3 to make it work in my 89. I also read that the later b32 had a hotter cam and a lighter flywheel, which made up for the slight lack in torque that the b35's had. Would this make it worth it?

I'm just looking for ideas and suggestions.

Here's the ad.

http://savannah.craigslist.org/pts/1672560602.html

Thanks for the input.

-Griffin

[Jean]

Some will say yes, some will say no. :)

[weaksauce]

if it's been on there a while, offer him $200 for it.
then sell it to japandrew

[Lurker27]

Honestly, b35s are so cheap and common there is no reason to settle for a b32. You get a better head, a bigger cam even than the b32, and more of them are wiring compatible.

[StereoInstaller1]

Don't forget you can use the harness off your M20B25 on that too.

[Lurker27]

^That is a much easier electronics solution, in fact. I wish I'd done mine that way.

[chadthestampede]

Honestly, b35s are so cheap and common there is no reason to settle for a b32. You get a better head, a bigger cam even than the b32, and more of them are wiring compatible.

You also get (if you have a casting date later than 1/88.) the 'lightweight' b35 blocks which are more prone to cracking under boost.

I'd say if you were going to tarbo it, the b32/b34 is a better platform. If you aren't, go b35 all the way. Much easier 'bolt-in' swap. So to speak. Then again everybody has a b35.

[gtarwiz]

I realize that I shouldn't "settle" for a b32 and that the b35's are pretty common for the same price. My ultimate goal for an engine like this is to turbo it. But my biggest concern with it is that it seems to be missing so many parts that I could get normally with it if I were to buy it else where for the same price or maybe cheaper.

I'm probably not going to go with it just because it is missing so much and it is as much as it is.

Thanks for the input!

-Griffin

[Lurker27]

I bought a 91 535i for $850 and parted out the goodies for more than that. Complete cars are the way to do this now IMO.


The B35 casting bit I am skeptical of. I've seen the photo of where they crack (oil to coolant passage), but I've seen cracked blocks in B34s as well. The B34s can't be THAT much different (I think it's just cooling flow increased for b35)

[chadthestampede]

The B35 casting bit I am skeptical of. I've seen the photo of where they crack (oil to coolant passage), but I've seen cracked blocks in B34s as well. The B34s can't be THAT much different (I think it's just cooling flow increased for b35)

That's just what I've heard from guys at mye28:

Hello Bob, You can stick with your B32 as it is the same stroke and will take a 92mm bore ending up the same dimensionally as the B34. If you decide to swap it for a B35 stay away from casting dates newer(later) than 1of 88 . These blocks are a lightweight version of the B35 and not a good turbo platform (decks crack). The only B35 block that I currently use bares a late 87 casting date and is rather hard to find.

All the B35 heads are the same and have a larger intake port than the B34 which works well when a turbocharging.

If you decide to use the B35 head on the B32/34 short block it will require a custom piston (flat top is approx 9 to 1 ) .

You will pretty much have to commit yourself to a N/A build going any higher than 9 to 1 on a street engine . If you want to gain any worthwhile performance out of the B32/34 (N/A without turbo) it will need to be at least 10 to 1 comp. which will all but rule out adding a turbo.

If you want to combine stock parts and stay normally aspirated for the moment, I would get the B35 short block (has flat top pistons) and use you B34 head (60cc chamber) which will result in a comp. ratio of approx 9.6/7 to 1, combine that with a decent cam and you will have a nice (very cheap) 220hp M30.

There is one draw back however, all the B35 blocks except the 87 date coded ones only have the E32/34 pass. side motor mount provisions so you might have to deal with making a new motor mount bracket.

Paul

[RickSloan]

the cracks are more often caused by mot properly clearing the head bold holes and threads before reinstall. The gunk oil and coolant gets pressed in and cracks the block because of the pressure.

i loved the b28 in my e12 and i will be putting it in an e30 with my 4 speed hopefully by next summer. i dont think that the b32 would be much different. the b28 wound up much faster then my b34 in my e30. It was fun in its own way while still being an m30 and having torque on command.

[StereoInstaller1]

I keep thinking about the 2 M30 powered 5 speed E28s in the yard down the street from me...they call the motors and trannys "core" because they don't know the condition.

[gtarwiz]

Ill probably end up just getting one cheaper from a yard, but they only seem to come once in a blue moon. But whether its a core or not doesnt really matter unless it has stress cracks or is warped beyond repair because I'll probably end up doing a Jean style refresh of the engine to insure it will last a long time.

[msinger]

just buy the lightweight flywheel off the guy and stick it on a b35, problem solved.

[quickervicar]

Luke, just buy both of the "cores." Throw one in the E34 and one in an E30. My M30B35 had almost 300k on it & the head was clean and bores were perfect. I can't imagine they would be that much different. Pull the heads & check to be sure, but you should go for it. Mine will eventually find its way into the bay of the E30.