Cooling your m30
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No problem - happy to help. Good luck with getting your cooling system running reliably!Comment
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I'm still using the switch mounted in the radiator and I agree, it's temperamental as fuck. It never comes on like it should. Maybe I'll switch the 80/88C for a 90/98C and place it in the thermostat housing.Comment
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Seeing as you're having issues Corvallis - I'd try shifting the 80/88 to the thermostat housing. It may work fine, but if the fan then doesn't switch off ever with the engine up to temp, you could swap out the thermostat for a 71 degree one.
The 71 degree thermostat was a factory option for hot climates so there shouldn't be problems with rich running etc. at the cooler temperature. I've run the 82 degree switch with the 71 degree thermostat for years and it has worked well.
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...34-e36-e39-z3/Comment
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Seeing as you're having issues Corvallis - I'd try shifting the 80/88 to the thermostat housing. It may work fine, but if the fan then doesn't switch off ever with the engine up to temp, you could swap out the thermostat for a 71 degree one.
The 71 degree thermostat was a factory option for hot climates so there shouldn't be problems with rich running etc. at the cooler temperature. I've run the 82 degree switch with the 71 degree thermostat for years and it has worked well.
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...34-e36-e39-z3/
I'm strongly considering moving away from the factory switches/relays and going to a full PWM setup. Brushed DC motors don't really like being kicked on to 100%, it tends to wear them out. That's not a problem if you're using your fans only for auxiliary cooling when needed because you have a mechanical fan that does 95% of the work. But in my case the electric fans are the only fans so they're starting/stopping dozens of times each trip I take. There's also a huge inrush current when the 88C circuit closes and my 16" ramps from low to high and the 10" kicks on to high as well. I can hear, feel, and watch the RPMs drop as the load on the alternator spikes. A PWM controller setup would mean longer fan life, less alternator wear, and lower noise. I've been doing a lot of research over the past few days and I'm really liking this guy's products: https://www.autocoolguy.com/product-page/auto-cool-55Comment
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You're right - the on or off setup is tough on the fans. I'm still running a curved blade e32 fan for my setup, but it's the second one. The first one I got around 3 years of daily driving out of before it died, then the second one has lasted 4 years so far but is starting to get a bit noisy now. Neither fan was new though, they're just wrecker fans with unknown history.
I have an e39 fan in the shed I'm going to run when the current one wears out.
That controller looks good - I like the way they go right up to 200 amps!Comment
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