The OFFICIAL let's make Erick's M30 stop overheating thread

[M-technik-3]

Erick here is a one.

http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=182706

[ForcedFirebird]

re check all your hoses at their securing points. Mine kept overheating cause of a hose in front of the block was not completely secure. fixed, then bled properly. done. But bleeding can be a hassle on these cars :(

I pressure tested the coolant system, no external leaks whatsoever.

I don't have a carbon tester, but suggested Erick test the coolant for carbon contamination before pulling anything apart.

[Good & Tight]

Yeah, I know how tough it can be to bleed these motors. But they are not impossible to bleed, and do it enough times and you get the feel for it.

I'm going to start putting some stuff I have chillin here for sale and try to generate some $$ . I just picked up my CNC exhaust manifold flange so I can get to work on a turbo setup as well, so that goes to show that I'm not giving up on this engine yet.

- E

Erick I had to heat cycle my engine a few times to get it properly bled. So it took more than a day.
Also my engine and turbo setup will be up for sale in a few months if your interested.

[Dominic49]

sounds like the issue i had with my turbo s50. which ultimatly lead to me getting so frustrated and not giving a fuck till i hotlapped the piss out of the car at nashville till it was spewing smoke out of the valve cover and exhaust sure it may of been stupid and a waste of money but sometimes you really need to just break something and take a step back... (gauge read 220oil temps and 240 water temps...) my next move for my shitty cooling situation is rear mount radiator... (after rebuilding the motor) i hate to do it, but it looks like the only way to keep this piece of shit cool...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ATMFa_AOaqc

and yes that is what appears to be exhaust gas coming out of the valve cover.... won't know for sure till i get the time/money/efforts to pull it apart

[slammin.e28]

I'm raising the white flag on this cylinder head and blaming it on a hairline crack somewhere. Does anyone have a good M30 head (b34/b35)?

Sorry to hear that!

...so I can get to work on a turbo setup as well

Go b35 head, drop that compression, and turbo the piss outta it!

Hope it's not the block!

[Erick]

^ Much appreciated. This purchase probably won't happen TOO soon (depending on how quick I can generate some $$$) so I will keep my eyes open for that

[Jean]

They do have tools to pull vacuum and then "suck" coolant in instead of bleeding air out ...try that maybe a shop has one of these on hand?

[chadthestampede]

Fwiw

if you decide to swap it for a b35 stay away from casting dates newer(later) than 1 of 88 . These blocks are a lightweight version of the b35 and not a good turbo platform (decks crack)

[Erick]

Yeah, I know how tough it can be to bleed these motors. But they are not impossible to bleed, and do it enough times and you get the feel for it.

I'm going to start putting some stuff I have chillin here for sale and try to generate some $$ . I just picked up my CNC exhaust manifold flange so I can get to work on a turbo setup as well, so that goes to show that I'm not giving up on this engine yet.

- E

[worangejuice]

re check all your hoses at their securing points. Mine kept overheating cause of a hose in front of the block was not completely secure. fixed, then bled properly. done. But bleeding can be a hassle on these cars :(

[bataangpinoy]

ebay had them for chips when i looked yesterday.

[Jean]

Sucks :( I have a b35 head that has been tanked but it needs to be surfaced and it's been surfaced once before, so it's no good to you.

Try Mye28.com dude!

[Erick]

Ok I give. After re routing the lines like Otis suggested and trying out a quick fan shroud, it was clear to me that this was quickly going nowhere.

I spoke to John over the phone and we both agree that it's hard to blame the fan as the radiator is often really cool according to the laser thermometer, and even the return hose is chillin at around ~170deg while the thermostat housing is already at 195+.

I also spoke to two other M30 gurus and by just describing the issues/symptoms they almost instantly pointed to a bad cylinder head or maybe even a cracked block.

I'm raising the white flag on this cylinder head and blaming it on a hairline crack somewhere. Does anyone have a good M30 head (b34/b35)?

[Erick]

Not yet. I'll look into the hose tonight and then make the shroud if that fails to make a difference

[Farbin Kaiber]

Did you try the shroud?