M30 turbo just snapped a rocker, top end advice?

[Lurker27]

I was hoping to have it running well again before they salt the roads, but until all my stuff gets in, it's hard to say how fast it can be done. First time pulling the head for me.

[euro2fast4u]

I wanna ride in this thing soon. You think it will be up and running by winter

[Lurker27]

call paul burke to discuss, you can find his number somewhere on mye28

I can't think of anyone who knows the m30 better, that is so available as paul

Paul is definitely awesome, but I was trying to keep this to a budget. His stuff would be slightly spendier, I think, though his turbo cam was a good deal last I checked.

[CHIF8008]

600 whp sounds good to me :D i would not be complaining haha

[The Humjet]

600whp Wow!
What are you trying to do get your front wheels off the ground?
You should be fine with stock springs. Even though schrick recommend upgraded valve springs with their cams you can still get away with stock springs as long as your rev limiter is under 7000rpm

[browntown]

call paul burke to discuss, you can find his number somewhere on mye28

I can't think of anyone who knows the m30 better, that is so available as paul

[Lurker27]

I shopped around cam shops and am going with IE, they quoted me a reasonable price and seem knowledgeable. I'll be running a turbo cam with a bit more lift than a schrick, hopefully. M30 heads are pretty lift limited on valve curtain area, so it should pick up some nice power. I'll have them recommend valve springs, I think, the whole package from there won't be too bad. If my clutch holds maybe I can crack 600rwhp on 22psi+93+meth

[The Humjet]

For the valve springs you best go to a good engine shop and have them check your spring pressures and let them decide what you should do. When I say go to a good engine shop I mean real GOOD I work at one and I've seen some big Fuck ups by other shops who have been in the business for over 40 years. They should have the special equipment to precisely check your valve springs. You might as well do it while your getting your head blue printed. And let them recommend you a place that does good cam regrinds.
That's what I'd do anyway.

[Lurker27]

This happened pulling out at 2500rpm, and I had just set the lash to 0.008 @ the cam cold - maybe a bit tight, but that should run poorly + burn valves, not snap a rocker. TBH I honestly think it was just mechanical failure, was running like a champ right before it happened.

[Good & Tight]

Valve lash is important also. Too loose and the bounce off the cam at high revs and break.
I've had very good results with valve lash set at .008 when the engine is warm.

[SkiFree]

This is probably a dumb question - but called who? I mostly asked the cam grinders I've talked to.

Sorry for the response being a little convoluted, I work at IE.

[Myster-E]

I'll definitely get that additive, I've heard of the ZDPP issue before, and simply running thicker oil (I have somewhere in my notes Pennzoil GT 20x50 is the best for zinc content, but it's pricey) is less appealing than using that stuff.[/QUOTE]

Valvoline VR1 oil has a good amount of zinc in it also plus its only $5 a qt. and comes on sale sometimes. Great stuff use it on all my cars.

[Lurker27]

I will be double sure to check out the rockers - hopefully worst case I just need new pads on a couple.

[Lurker27]

This is probably a dumb question - but called who? I mostly asked the cam grinders I've talked to. If you are Scneider Cams (I've heard very good things) then you probably have an e-mail from me. The sense I get generally is that new M30B35 dual springs are fine for most regrinds since the valve lift is limited by how small the base circle can be, but that could be wrong...and certainly is if material is added on.

I'll definitely get that additive, I've heard of the ZDPP issue before, and simply running thicker oil (I have somewhere in my notes Pennzoil GT 20x50 is the best for zinc content, but it's pricey) is less appealing than using that stuff.

[SkiFree]

If you got them from the guy trying to hawk them on bimmerforums BE WARY. Make sure the pads are in good shape as some of them looked suspect.

I've taken the billet rockers off the site a while ago as a lot of people were not taking care of them the way they should have been. With newer oil possessing no (or low ammounts of) zinc/phosphorus I'd make sure you run a proper additive on break in as well as normal use. Some good stuff to use would be http://schneidercams.com/formula2additive.aspx

In regards to the valve springs, have you called regarding your setup?