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m30b32 swap feeler

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    m30b32 swap feeler

    I haven't been able to really find a definite answer to as to why not to use the b32 other than it's smaller, but I figured I'd get a second opinion as it's not a bad motor.

    so here goes,

    I met a guy who is parting out a 633, and will sell me engine, trans, harness and ecu, radiator, and whatever else I want for $300. Other than needing to be cleaned up, there's nothing wrong with the motor. I saw it turn over and sounded healthy as well. That brings me to my questions:

    - is there really any downside to using a b32 opposed to a b34/b35? it puts out the same amount of power as a b34 and only slightly less torque, plus it has a lighter flywheel and a nice cam. Compared to the b35, I wouldn't have to worry about the block cracking that the b35's are prone to, and it would still take nicely to boost.

    - I have an 84 eta running motronic 1.0 which is what the b32 uses, what would I have to do, if anything, to the harness to get it to fit? Theoretically, they should be the same and might be able to get away with reusing my m20 harness if I really need to. I do want to do the 1.3 upgrade at a later date.

    - The guy said that 3rd was going out, then it changed to 2nd. Since 260's aren't really notorious for losing gears, searching again led me to believe that it needs a fluid change for sure. I was already planning on putting a new clutch in before I put it in the car and possibly getting the flywheel machined too. How much should a rebuild run me if I have to do it?

    - Can I use b34 mounts or would I need to have some fabricated? I've read a lot about having to massage the firewall sometimes, but I plan on having the engine as forward as much as I can without having to do that.

    I'm trying to get everything sorted out before I pull the trigger on this so I don't miss anything. I already plan to install new gaskets and a rear main seal and some other necessary maintenance while the motor is out too. Sorry for all the verbal diarrhea, but I figured I should ask the people who know more about this than I do. I'm sure I missed a few things though..

    #2
    1 - it's less powerful, basically. If you're going through the effort of putting a bigger motor in, why put in one that's not much better than what you have now? The B32 accomplishes the power level it has by having a hotter cam than a B34, so it has a lot less headroom for power gain, and the cam takes to boost worse than the less advanced B34 cam.

    2 - yeah, the harness should work. You'll want the M30 ecu, of course, but Motronic 1.0 is Motronic 1.0. You'll need to extend some wires but it should be fine.

    3 - no idea :( By going out, did he mean grinding in gear, or syncro failure?

    4 - you can use B34 mounts iirc. Non-B35 M30s have a coolant outlet fitting on the back of the head, which decreases the clearance you have for the head and may cause some interference with the brake lines that run across the firewall (as well as the firewall itself). If you have a lift and can drop the engine in through the bottom, you can probably make it work, but dropping it in through the top will suck.
    cars beep boop

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      #3
      Anything is better than the eta motor lol. The main reason I was even considering putting in that motor was that it was a cheap package deal, and there isn't an abundance of m30's out here. That being said, I think I'll just wait for another one to show up again.

      I'm pretty sure he said syncro failure, like it wouldn't go into gear

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