just got the m30 in the bay

[chance]

I have Otis's mounts and for live of me can not figure out how to get the engine in the rear most position. I have smashed the firewall in, and seem to have clearance, but I can not get it into the rearmost position.

Could the g265 be hitting on the inside of the trans tunnel?

I am contemplating taking the mounts off and drilling a hole between the two mounting holes. I should easily be able to get it in the middle holes if I drilled them.

Help me r3v! Its 5am and I've been working on this car all week.

[chadthestampede]

I have Otis's mounts and for live of me can not figure out how to get the engine in the rear most position. I have smashed the firewall in, and seem to have clearance, but I can not get it into the rearmost position.

Could the g265 be hitting on the inside of the trans tunnel?

I am contemplating taking the mounts off and drilling a hole between the two mounting holes. I should easily be able to get it in the middle holes if I drilled them.

Help me r3v! Its 5am and I've been working on this car all week.

Yes. Although I didn't have a 265 I had to widen the trans tunnel a bit because the top of the bellhousing was hitting.

[Good & Tight]

What position did I make you 1&2 or 2 & 3 ? Either way it should fit fairly easy in position 2.

[Bearmw]

Make sure the thick factory insulation is gone and replace with something thin. I also think it is much easier to lower the whole subframe and bolt the trans to the engine to it when it is lowered. Then raise and re-attach the subframe with engine and trans together. An engine support bar can be very helpful in this process. I just pulled and reattached my trans and had to lower everything to make it work.

[chance]

What position did I make you 1&2 or 2 & 3 ? Either way it should fit fairly easy in position 2.

I have no idea. I didn't specify when I ordered. I didn't know there were two versions.

[Good & Tight]

I have no idea. I didn't specify when I ordered. I didn't know there were two versions.

Then you got the 1 & 2 position ones, should not have any issues then.

[chance]

Make sure the thick factory insulation is gone and replace with something thin. I also think it is much easier to lower the whole subframe and bolt the trans to the engine to it when it is lowered. Then raise and re-attach the subframe with engine and trans together. An engine support bar can be very helpful in this process. I just pulled and reattached my trans and had to lower everything to make it work.

I guess I'm going to have to rip the insulation all off.

Any recomendations for thin insulation?

If I can fit the radiator in in its current position, there is a bonus. My shifter is dead center where it needs to be.

[WatchMyDrift]

I had to pound my trans tunnel a lot to get it in. Also check the top of the bell housing where it mates to the block. Thats where mine was hitting. I used under coating on the firewall after i took it out. Its gonna get hot by your feet too without the heat shielding.

[chance]

After a little more persuasion, I got the engine moved back. Next on the list is to make the trans mount, shorten the shifter carrier, and machine a new selector rod

[porschelou]

We put a b34/m30 in our 86 e30. We ended up cutting some of the firewall out (made a false plate on the inside). For the selector rod we used a 185mm rod (came from a e30). The aluminum shifter part (that piece that the bitch clip holds) had to be ground a the rear where it goes into the rubber bushing in the back. Easy - no cutting or modifing the linkage. Run a couple of endurance races with no issues.

[chance]

We put a b34/m30 in our 86 e30. We ended up cutting some of the firewall out (made a false plate on the inside). For the selector rod we used a 185mm rod (came from a e30). The aluminum shifter part (that piece that the bitch clip holds) had to be ground a the rear where it goes into the rubber bushing in the back. Easy - no cutting or modifing the linkage. Run a couple of endurance races with no issues.

What trans were you running?

Annoyingly enough, my shifter was dead center in the hole on the forward position of the engine mounts. With the engine moved back to have more room in the bay, its now about an inch off center.

My shifter carrier is steel, so it wont be bad to shorten, though I do have to figure out how I want to mount the carrier to the body.

For the selector, im definitely going to do a double shear rod, probably in stainless. It should be easy once I get the length set

[WatchMyDrift]

After a little more persuasion, I got the engine moved back. Next on the list is to make the trans mount, shorten the shifter carrier, and machine a new selector rod

I used my stock e30 trans mount. i just had to slide the insert stud things back a little bit. fit like it was supposed to fit there. i think the stock 5 series mount maight work to, if u have it

[chance]

Picked up trans mounts and a EVO3 shifter from UUC today, and dropped my driveshaft off to get shortened.

I dont know why people are so worried about getting the DS shortened, it was $40 bucks haha.

Trans brace is also made, but may need modification, as I think it puts the trans too high.

[chance]

I guess I need to start a build thread..

[chance]

I guess I need to start a build thread..

Build thread linked in my sig if anyone wants to see pics