STarter issues on M30

[/\/\ III]

Q: if I am getting voltage at pin#30 and #87, but still no start, what could be the issue? The engine does crank over, but I can't get it to run. The issue been plaguing me.
I also pull fuel line at FPR and I have fuel coming up, just no spark. I also changed coil and cap and rotor. I have voltage at the coil. Really stumped :puppy:...thanks all.

[NoM54me]

If you have proper fuel pressure, spark, and air, it will start...assuming no monstrous vacuum problems and correct timing. Check for spark by pulling a plug and grounding the electrode to intake manifold, see it fires. If so, move on. If not, there's your problem. If it does, check your AFM, and reference and speed sensors.

[/\/\ III]

I did the spark plug to intake manifold, no spark...i replaced my ref and crank sensors too, no spark.

i will try replacing the main relay, my 3rd time, to see if that may be the problem. i do have a clicking sound to the main relay.

Other than that, I will check for a vacuum leak, hten for fuel pressure.

[NoM54me]

If you have power to the coil, the main relay's good. Power at the coil but no spark means you have a problem somewhere in between. As for the spark plug test- you pulled a plug, then plugged it back in to the wire, then held the electrode onto the manifold while someone tried to start it, right? It seems easy, but it can also be easy to do wrong if you've not done it before. Seems odd you'd have no spark but proper voltage on a new coil, and new cap and rotor. Wires may be screwy. Have you checked your AFM? Also, which M30 are you working on?

[/\/\ III]

yes, i did have a couple of buddies help me with the spark plug to ground check...still no spark. i will check the wires and AFM. AFM looks like crap. I will post a pic soon. I tried starting fluid and it wouldn't help either.

I am working on the montronic 1.1 m30b35.

[NoM54me]

You replaced coil, was it with a new one? If not, did you check the coil terminals for proper resistance (wires off, obviously), then check for 12V from the wires? Are the reference and speed sensors switched? I've been pretty lucky with my B32, Motronic 1.0 is super basic, but a snap to diagnose things. Have you tried a pinout test on the ecu? May help you narrow down that no-spark condition. Stomp test might turn something up too. Has any other work been done to the engine recently?

[/\/\ III]

You replaced coil, was it with a new one? If not, did you check the coil terminals for proper resistance (wires off, obviously), then check for 12V from the wires? Are the reference and speed sensors switched? I've been pretty lucky with my B32, Motronic 1.0 is super basic, but a snap to diagnose things. Have you tried a pinout test on the ecu? May help you narrow down that no-spark condition. Stomp test might turn something up too. Has any other work been done to the engine recently?

My apologies bro, I've been travelling...Yes, I got a new coil. I didn't try testing voltage with coil off, but I will. Ref sensors are not switched and are New.


How I do a pin out from ecu?

I've got a new fuel pump, coil, new sensors, new cap, and new rotor button so far.

[/\/\ III]

going through the etm...so I have voltage at the main relay, fuel pump relay, and pins 11 - 14 on the diagnostic connector; fuse 11 good.
injectors click, fuel coming to the fuel rail

from alternator, whats the blue wire for? diagnostic connector has two feeds from alternator
diagnostic connector pin 12 blue
diagnostic connector pin 14 red

on the ecu, am i only checking the input power feed and grounds from ecu harness?

ref sensors are new, i'm guessing i have a bad ecu...still no spark...thanks again.

[the imitator]

Borrow someone else's ECU for 10 minutes and just try that real quick.

When I had a no start issue I was stumped, had fuel, and spark, main relay working fine, eveything checked out, even cranks sensors.

We replaced the ecu and she fired up, turned out the board had a hairline crack with was causing this.

[lukeADE335i]

The blue wire on the alternator must be connected.

It's the exciter wire in the alternator. Mine came loose after doing my swap, and I did the alternator diodes in.

That shouldn't stop the car starting though.

[/\/\ III]

getting another ecu to borrow isn't so easy, but i will try...

luke, i just wanted to know what the blue wire is for, i was wondering why there are two feeds to the diagnostic port from the alternator and what the other wire does...

[the imitator]

i can ship you one to try if you need.

[/\/\ III]

That would a great help...I'll pm now.

[/\/\ III]

While I check out some things after discussing with the imitator...i have a few questions for the ecu pin out to check for spark, can someone confirm?

pin 1 ecu to coil negative check for continuity
pin 4 ecu power start input
pin 6 ecu ground
pin 8 ecu to engine speed input ohm?
pin 14 ecu injector bank 1, 2, 3
pin 15 ecu injector bank 4, 5, 6
pin 16 ecu ground
pin 17 ecu ground
pin 18 ecu to main relay pin ? power with key off
pin 19 ecu ground
pin 20 ecu to fuel relay pin 85 (ground) check for continuity
pin 25 ecu to ref point sensors ohm?
pin 26 ecu to ref point sensors ohm?
pin 27 ecu to engine speed input ohm?
pin 35 ecu to main relay pin 30? power with key off


pin 30 main relay from ecu pin?
pin 86 main relay from ecu pin?
pin 87 main relay to fuel relay

pin 30 fuel relay check voltage
pin 85 fuel relay from pin 20 ecu
pin 86 fuel relay from main relay pin 87
pin 87 fuel relay to fuse 11