Started my m30 swap

[TimeMachinE30]

Bottom of radiator support? Mounts used on engine and trans? Driveshaft?

[330icrazy]

I used an old aluminum level that I cut up as a channel for it to sit in

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[330icrazy]

https://youtu.be/xtF4hnX4sPg

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[330icrazy]

The drive shaft bolted right up 88 325 and shifter without mods

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[330icrazy]

Stock bushings

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[330icrazy]

https://youtu.be/iUsHDosAPmU

My exhaust system dual pipes back through the cat then single 2.5 to dual tips

[330icrazy]

I have had my e30 now over 5 years the majority of the time it has been in the garage or wafflesin the driveway waiting for me to work on it. I got it and drove it with the stock engine for about a year, wafflesit had the 2.7 liter super eta engine. When I bought it it came with a 885 head to do the head swap popular on the eta engine and a M30B35 engine in pieces. The car already had a set of ie race springs Billy sports in the rear and koni adjustable shocks up front the previous owners had done suspension and brakes new calipers wafflesrotors powerflex bushings and wheel bearings and CV Axel's rear sway bar. Sport Houndstooth interior map light mirror. Korman short shifter with m boots and m tech steering wheel. 3.25 lsd. The list goes on .. I decided to sell the 885 head and build the m30 so I took the head to a local guy had valve job done replaced rocker arms (as I have heard they are a weak point of the engine) and decked it flat which needed thirty thousands taken off. The cylinders looking good and the bearings looking good I left the bottom end alone. I put everything back together pulled the m20b27 and installed a M3 rack while I had the engine out. Then installed the M30B35 along with the getrag 260 5 speed new guibo, radiator from a e28 535i and some electric fans. This was about a 2 year project as wafflesI had just had a baby. I got an exhaust on it and was very happy to be driving it again and loved the new power. I drove it about a month when one morning I started it up and the oil light did not go out!!!! Turn it off and began another year of diagnostic work pulling the engine checking the oil pump bought a second m30 from the local u pull yard as a backup insurance / parts. After many interweb searching I determined it to be the faulty check valve in the oil filter housing. Along comes baby 2. So I get everything back together and enjoy the car for 4 months I have now bought parts to do a bigger brake set up and 5 lug swap and my inspection runs out and I need to replace the wire to the backup switch so I have backup lights to pass inspection so the car sits for another 7 months over the winter until my daily needs work and I need the car to get to work. So I get it back on the road and enjoy driving it even do an autocross. The new suspension and 5 lug swap still sitting in the garage along with style 32 wheels from a 540i. Then this morning I start the car and the oil light doesn't go out!!!!!. I don't think it is the check valve again as I opened the oil filter canister and it was full of oil. I am ready to quit.

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[Bearmw]

I would at least inspect the oil spray bar with the engine running to see if it it is properly coming out and also run a pressure gauge before I threw in the towel.

On the other hand it sounds like a frustrating process but for a good reason. I hope you are able to enjoy the car more or another one at a later time. A healthy B35 is a good swap.

[LowR3V'in]

i know how you feel but don't quit on it.

Most peoples process takes forever because of dumb mistakes
Get a real gauge. <----fast!

Talk to us. Does it knock? Spin a bearing? oil spraying bar orientate the correct position? bolts tight w/ washers? Did you mess with the oil pump gear at all?

[330icrazy]

I think it may be the oil filter housing again I am going to do a remote oil filter and eliminate that failure mode from my car.

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[cscracker]

The oil pump failed on my 533i. It happens. The light would stay lit below about 1250 RPM, depending on temperature. When checked with a gauge, it was going real low at idle, ~5psi.

As others mentioned, check the pressure with a gauge, as the pressure switches fail too, and check the spray bar, since it's easy.

[330icrazy]

Problem fixed block adapter from VAC Motorsports remote filter housing and -AN lines and fittings from summit racing.

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[Bearmw]

Very nice. More details about what went wrong with the old housing and what did that setup run? How is the car running overall?

[330icrazy]

I had no oil pressure on start up normally the oil light goes out after 5-10 seconds on start up. The check valve on these cars is a known failure mode. The valve fails and all the oil drains back to the oil pan. So on start up the filter canister needs to fill before oil gets to the pump.
I had already replaced the oil filter housing with a used one it worked for a little while but occasionally I noticed it would take more than 10 seconds for the light to go out. Then one morning after about an eternity or a minute the light was still on. I shut it down... This is my solution get rid of the check valve by eliminating the housing all together. Parts were about $250 much cheaper than a new housing too. So far it has worked great [emoji3].

Very nice. More details about what went wrong with the old housing and what did that setup run? How is the car running overall?

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[Bearmw]

I will keep your solution in mind if I ever have that issue but so far mine has not had any issues with oil pressure and runs between 55-60 psi at full temp on the highway. At idle when hot I have around 15 plus psi.