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    Compression tester

    I found a s38 cheap in a wrecked car. I want to do a compression and leakdown test. I got a compression guage to check it. I just want to know the proper method for using it. Do you just put it in and crank? ot use Tq wrench to take each piston to TDC? Any help would be appreciated!
    Summer '85 E24 635csi Winter '88 E30 325iX, I lose 25% of my hp before I even turn the key.

    #2
    remove all spark plugs, and disable the fuel system, then crack the throttle fully open, thread the tester into the #1 plug hole, and crank it over. Then do the same for the next cylinder and so on.
    85 325e 2.7 ITB'd stroker

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      #3
      Exactly as described above.

      Leakdown is a far better test for ring issues, but requires compressed air and a different set of guages.

      If you find low compression, squirt about a teaspoon of regular motor oil in the cylinder then re-test. This will show bad valves or not.

      Luke

      Closing SOON!
      "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

      Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

      Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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        #4
        When you are testing compression, you need to crank the engine over 3-4 times for each cylinder, so you need a pretty healthy battery to complete all of the testing. If you have low compression on a few cylinders and you have to test a second time after dripping in a teaspoon of oil into the cylinder, you will almost guaranteed drain the battery. Have a battery charger handy too.

        Make a note of how quickly the engine builds compression. It should do it quickly, ~75-90 psi on first crank.

        Originally posted by whysimon
        WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

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          #5
          Originally posted by FredK View Post
          When you are testing compression, you need to crank the engine over 3-4 times for each cylinder, so you need a pretty healthy battery to complete all of the testing. If you have low compression on a few cylinders and you have to test a second time after dripping in a teaspoon of oil into the cylinder, you will almost guaranteed drain the battery. Have a battery charger handy too.

          Make a note of how quickly the engine builds compression. It should do it quickly, ~75-90 psi on first crank.
          It's important to use the battery charger the whole time. If the battery loses power and turns over at a slightly slower rate on the last cylinder tests, the readings will be lower. I try to minimize variance the battery voltage during the test by using a battery charger that can supply starting amperage (i.e. not a trickle charger)
          Richard

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            #6
            also dont forget that you are only allowed a maximum of 10 psi. varience between all your cylinders.
            if you have more, then have the engine checked out. you could be looking at needing to do a rebuild or a machine job.
            AWW! Thats just a bunch of hairy monkey butts! :borg:

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              #7
              Not 10psi, but 10% variance.

              Luke

              Closing SOON!
              "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

              Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

              Thanks for 10 years of fun!

              Comment


                #8
                Thats true i had just went back through the book and caught myself on that.
                keep that in mind Hawk, other wise you will end up with a situation I went thrugh just recently! NO FUN- let me tell you!
                AWW! Thats just a bunch of hairy monkey butts! :borg:

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