From a 335i to a 345i

[Garageaholic]

I was thinking of getting a turbo from TCD, non-intercooled and running it in my M30 (E32). I was told by todd (who is very helpful by the way) that with what i'm running, which is relatively a bone stock setup, with exception to the LW flywheel, that with a non-intercooled setup, 30lb injectors, I could probably pull about 300rwhp with a 8psi boost.

The engine is very healthy, all maintenance parts have been replaced with stock parts. I have no cooling issues. It is running perfect.

He said clearance issues would not be a problem. So what do you guys think?

Think it's worth a go? Do you think these numbers are relatively true? What max psi can I run without blowing a head gasket?

[golde30]

how much is the kit? that would determine whether or not it is worth it. for a non intercooled setup, you could piece that setup togther yourself for pretty cheap.

[Garageaholic]

for 3500 from TCD. that's what i'm afraid of... piecing it together. This kit comes with everythign I need... almost like a weekend bolt on procedure (minus the exhaust welding)

I'm afraid of buying a manifold/turbo/wastegate and not have it compatible....

everything comes specific for this engine. the M30

[Erick]

You get what you pay for. If you are unsure about piecing a turbo kit together and spending the appropriate time to figure out what you need to get and how you need to modify certain things to get the car boosted the proper way, then pay the extra money for who does the quality bolt on work.

From experience, power is a goddamn drug. It only makes you want to go even faster.

- Erick

[Garageaholic]

You're right, and i Probably will want to go faster, but for having a non-intercooled turbo kit, it will be easier and relatively cheap to get that much more power later on down the road...
Would I be willing to pay $3500 for a brand new Ready to run turbo kit all inclusive for an extra 100rwhp minimum for a potential of 600rwhp intercooled/tuned?

YES

[Mot]

m30s love boost. I really wouldnt worry about harming it, esp with 8psi. That motor will take 8psi all day long... that being said, 300rwhp is insane in a e30. my 200+whp N/A m52 feels insane, I havnt raced anything yet, But Im sure I can already keep up alot of newer cars.

[Garageaholic]

Yeah, that's what I figure. I'm wondering if most other people on this forum, like you mot, feel that this engine (comp ratio 9:1) can handle 8-10psi. My engine is really healthy and I think that It's a powerhorse,

I just hope that the installation is relatively easy. I was told that i wouldnt' have any clearance issues. i was told that I would have more clearance than on an E28 because the engine bay is actually wider. I hope that's true...


QUESTION: The kit comes with oil return/supply lines. Does anybody have any pictures of where it would tap into on the return and supply line? Thanx

[Mot]

Im no m30 expert, but from what Ive seen on mye28.org and the FI section of bimmerforums, I see no reason why 8-10psi shouldnt be doable with no issues. Aslong as its tuned reasonably well 9:1 is plenty low for that sort of boost.

[euroshark]

The TCD S1 kit runs 9.5psi or so. 8 to 10psi is totally safe on a stock M30!! No need for an intercooler or anything, just some AFM adjustment to keep the air / fuel ratio where it needs to be. Todd told me my 3.2 would make ~280whp at 9.5psi, so that's what I am doing this summer! Megasquirt first, then TCD manifold, or maybe the kit. I can't wait to see your car when this is done!!

[Garageaholic]

How do you adjust the M30 AFM? i didn't even know it was adjustable

[MrK]

How do you adjust the M30 AFM? i didn't even know it was adjustable

You know, just like you adjust any other AFM. Pull out the black cover and play around with the spring tension. A few clicks looser would allow more fuel in compared to the same amount of air. General knowledge no?

[Garageaholic]

I've never fucked with the AFM before due to the fact that it's expensive to replace if broken. I never thought there was adjustability with it. Interesting

[StereoInstaller1]

My thoughts on buying a turbo kit:

If you are going to use aftermarket management, why buy a turbo kit?

The $3500 pricetag (which I think is excellent, BTW) covers about $2K in parts, $1K in R&D, $500 in tech support. The parts costs include warranty, correct?

If you know you are the type to be OK in the long run stopping at say 320 RWHP, go for a kit. Be done in a weekend!

Just my 2 cents

Luke

I think those that aspire to MS, SDS, TEC III, VEMS, (whatever) should buy parts like a 666 mani (or a TCD or Car-Tech log), buy a turbo from Turbo City or someone to provide tech support...but build your ECU system first, get it up and running smooth, THEN turbo it.

[euroshark]

Pretty easy, just put a reference mark on the gear, and turn it a few clicks tighter or looser depending on what you need to do, probably a few clicks tighter for a turbo setup since its sucking a bunch more air... if it was the stock tightness it would flap wide open at partial throttle. Just be careful not to lose control of the gear!! My dad tried to adjust his with a big screwdriver and lost it, it's taken him a year of tinkering to get it back to approximately correct.

Luke, thats pretty much the direction I am going. Build and tune the Megasquirt, then buy a TCD manifold, turbo from somewhere, build the exhaust and intake plumbing myself. It's a ton cheaper that way since the S1 TCD kit is right around $3800, and the intercooled kit is over $5k!! I think I can build the entire system, Megasquirt included for $2000, maybe less. I'll still probably stop around 12psi though!

[Garageaholic]

Pretty easy, just put a reference mark on the gear, and turn it a few clicks tighter or looser depending on what you need to do, probably a few clicks tighter for a turbo setup since its sucking a bunch more air... if it was the stock tightness it would flap wide open at partial throttle. Just be careful not to lose control of the gear!! My dad tried to adjust his with a big screwdriver and lost it, it's taken him a year of tinkering to get it back to approximately correct.

Thanx for the help. I'll give that a try! I'm going to get an A/F ratio as well, so with the adjustment of the RRFPR and the AFM, i think i can tune it to a nominal, modest level.