Parts needed for a M30 swap in a 325e

[xxx-Lost-Soul-xxx]

I have a 85 M535i clone, "even has the fake import stickers" soon
i will be putting away for show only.


I am trying to get a idea of what is needed here.
here is what i have already.

85 535i complete motor
m30 chipped ecu.
535i harness.
535i headers
5 lug kit "off 87 535is"

parts wanted

Fuse box from 85 535i
373 rear end
autobahn Mounts
325E complete car
south afika e28 radiator

I want the fusebox,because i am seeing that people kept there e30 fusebox's and the windows dont work properly.

car will be a daily driver. The motor was in the m535i cloneb4 the swap
so i know its history.

So what else do i need here?


Also i would like other folks thoughts, do i spend a extra bucks to get 40 more hp on a unknown motor, or do i go with the older 533i motor to get better fuel, yes the 533i,vs 535i way differnt on fuel.

[der affe]

if you get an older motor than the chassis, you might have problems at the dmv if it has never been registered in az before. for first time inspections they will check the vintage of the motor.

are the weird metric wheels on your wishlist too?

[xxx-Lost-Soul-xxx]

if you get an older motor than the chassis, you might have problems at the dmv if it has never been registered in az before. for first time inspections they will check the vintage of the motor.

are the weird metric wheels on your wishlist too?

which car you talking about?

[der affe]

which car you talking about?

any car with a motor swap in AZ

the wheels for the M535i are metric

[xxx-Lost-Soul-xxx]

I have axcess to a house in Globe No emmison testing is required.

The US 535i came with metric tires as well.

[euroshark]

The engine harness has nothing to do with the windows... I would think that any instance where the windows stopped working after an M30 transplant is likely a coincidence. Plus swapping an E28 fusebox into an E30 would be a nightmare. The fusebox and front harness are one piece. I would guess at the minimum you would have possible issues with the instrument cluster, OBC, and HVAC wiring. Mating the engine harness to the stock E30 fusebox is very simple, so don't let that scare you into doing extra work.

Stuff you will need in addition to what you listed:
Driveshaft
Shift linkage - possibly
E32/E34 M30 oil pan and oil pump
Exhaust - either find a complete one from a wrecked 335i (ha! Not likely to happen twice in the same century...) or build / modify one

As for your question on fuel economy with the 3.2 vs the 3.4, in my experience putting over 50,000 combined miles on a 533i, 535is, and two euro 635CSis, the difference in economy is marginal. My 533i averaged about 25mpg on my commute whereas my 535is averages 24.5, but has extra options including the uber heavy ass power sport seats. Now if you are talking about a european spec M30B34 (218hp vs 185hp / 182hp depending on the source) there may be a bit more difference in fuel economy, BUT not necessarily. My dad has a euro spec 635CSi as his daily driver and averages slightly better than I get in my 535is! Some weeks he gets as much as 27mpg and his commute is nearly identical to mine. I imagine in an E30 weighing between 300 to 500lbs less than the 5 or 6 series that the engine is coming out of, you will see economy figures in the high 20s unless you drive like a maniac, regardless of the M30 variant you go with.

Edit: The South African radiators are nearly impossible to get. I'm sure you will see temps upwards of 115 degrees or so in the summer in AZ, but a nice new 535i radiator ($175ish at AutohausAZ) with a good electric fan or two should keep you plenty cool. Remember, the M30 will be pulling less weight in an E30 so it won't be working as hard. My 535is with a new radiator doesn't even touch the middle of the gauge in 100+ degree heat... and my car is black.

[der affe]

I have axcess to a house in Globe No emmison testing is required.

The US 535i came with metric tires as well.

did not know that!

mine is registered out of cottonwood, don't forget you have to change the address on your driver's license too

[wkohler]

did not know that!

mine is registered out of cottonwood, don't forget you have to change the address on your driver's license too

No you don't. If you specify that the car will be only used there, it can be registered there.

[xxx-Lost-Soul-xxx]

The engine harness has nothing to do with the windows... I would think that any instance where the windows stopped working after an M30 transplant is likely a coincidence. Plus swapping an E28 fusebox into an E30 would be a nightmare. The fusebox and front harness are one piece. I would guess at the minimum you would have possible issues with the instrument cluster, OBC, and HVAC wiring. Mating the engine harness to the stock E30 fusebox is very simple, so don't let that scare you into doing extra work.

Stuff you will need in addition to what you listed:
Driveshaft
Shift linkage - possibly
E32/E34 M30 oil pan and oil pump
Exhaust - either find a complete one from a wrecked 335i (ha! Not likely to happen twice in the same century...) or build / modify one

As for your question on fuel economy with the 3.2 vs the 3.4, in my experience putting over 50,000 combined miles on a 533i, 535is, and two euro 635CSis, the difference in economy is marginal. My 533i averaged about 25mpg on my commute whereas my 535is averages 24.5, but has extra options including the uber heavy ass power sport seats. Now if you are talking about a european spec M30B34 (218hp vs 185hp / 182hp depending on the source) there may be a bit more difference in fuel economy, BUT not necessarily. My dad has a euro spec 635CSi as his daily driver and averages slightly better than I get in my 535is! Some weeks he gets as much as 27mpg and his commute is nearly identical to mine. I imagine in an E30 weighing between 300 to 500lbs less than the 5 or 6 series that the engine is coming out of, you will see economy figures in the high 20s unless you drive like a maniac, regardless of the M30 variant you go with.

Edit: The South African radiators are nearly impossible to get. I'm sure you will see temps upwards of 115 degrees or so in the summer in AZ, but a nice new 535i radiator ($175ish at AutohausAZ) with a good electric fan or two should keep you plenty cool. Remember, the M30 will be pulling less weight in an E30 so it won't be working as hard. My 535is with a new radiator doesn't even touch the middle of the gauge in 100+ degree heat... and my car is black.

Ok coool, Thank you

Funkmaster said if i use his motor mounts I can use the stock 325e driveshaft,and shift linkage, When i had my 533i last year, I told the shop i had it at to find me a south afika radiator,at first they didnt know what it was,But they scored me a brand new one.
Then i total the car 3 weeks later :(


now, im also told If i use my B34 i have to swap heads, If i just pick up a B35, does that mean i dont have to swap the pans?

[Doughnut]

Ok coool, Thank you

Funkmaster said if i use his motor mounts I can use the stock 325e driveshaft,and shift linkage, When i had my 533i last year, I told the shop i had it at to find me a south afika radiator,at first they didnt know what it was,But they scored me a brand new one.
Then i total the car 3 weeks later :(


now, im also told If i use my B34 i have to swap heads, If i just pick up a B35, does that mean i dont have to swap the pans?

In general, aim for a m30b35 from a later model e34, you don't have to swap pans/ oil pumps, saves you alot of head ache. and the motor does fit with little modification to the firewall. engine from e24's and e28's require different pans and pumps - if this is the only option you can go ebay and the for sale section is your friend.

Not sure where funks mounts put the m30, but I imagine if he says you can reuse your stock tailshaft and shift rods, it's more of a forward position.

For your swap a e28 535i radiator works perfect (I know because this is what im using) it does not matter if it's a auto or manual one.

Please feel free to correct if im wrong.

[Funkmasta]

In general, aim for a m30b35 from a later model e34, you don't have to swap pans/ oil pumps, saves you alot of head ache. and the motor does fit with little modification to the firewall. engine from e24's and e28's require different pans and pumps - if this is the only option you can go ebay and the for sale section is your friend.

Not sure where funks mounts put the m30, but I imagine if he says you can reuse your stock tailshaft and shift rods, it's more of a forward position.

For your swap a e28 535i radiator works perfect (I know because this is what im using) it does not matter if it's a auto or manual one.

Please feel free to correct if im wrong.

The b35 motor will fit without modification. If you are using a b34 motor (which you already have?) you just need to modify the firewall slightly. If you are totally anti-modification to the firewall, go get a b35 motor.

With my mounts, my car weighed in at 1500 over the front axle, and 1400 over the rear axle (AC completely removed)

[chadthestampede]

I want the fusebox,because i am seeing that people kept there e30 fusebox's and the windows dont work properly.

"To get the electric windows and sunroof to work with the doors shut and for the heater blower to work at all you need to connect the black and green wire from pin 15 on the E30 C101 to a small spade connector on the starter motor."

from e30zone. It's an easy enough fix. On my engine the starter didn't have another spade connector so I just connected the wire to the thingy that connects the solenoid and the starter together and they work fine.